Maintenance of your Woodworking Tools

Woodworking tools are designed to last many years as long as you look after them. With some regular maintenance, you can extend the life of your tools and keep you safe. Learn a few tips for maintaining your tools.

What to Include on Your Regular Maintenance Checklist

Depending on the type of tools you own and how often you use them will dictate your maintenance schedule. The following is a list of jobs that should be completed on a regular basis to keep your tools in good working order.

Check Tool Alignment is Accurate

A machine that is out of alignment needs to work harder and doesn’t produce ideal results. Invest in some good quality tools to check and realign your tools so that you aren’t at risk of kickbacks. An incra square and multi-gauge will cover most of your aligning tasks. Keep your alignment equipment out of your toolbox jumble to ensure they stay in a good, accurate condition.

Remove Sawdust from Machines

The longer sawdust is left sitting on machines, the greater the chance it will find its way inside motors and switches. Use a brush or vacuum to remove the sawdust rather than an air compressor which can drive sawdust deeper into machines.

Lubricating Parts on Working Machines

Due to the dusty environment, woodworking tools and machines need cleaning and lubricating. But using the wrong lubricant can be even more damaging than not using one at all. White grease can attract and hold dust while lubricants that contain silicone can move from surface to surface and eventually end up on your project making it difficult for the finish to adhere to the wood. Look for a dry lubricant with no silicone such as Camellia Oil and apply after thoroughly cleaning the surface.

Removing Rust Spots

Cast iron is used on saw tables and parts of woodworking machines because of its durable, heavy properties but it is prone to rust. Use WD-40 or a non-silicone lubricant and some steel wool to rub away the rust spot. Clean the surface thoroughly after the rust has been removed. You may be left with a mark where the rust was because part of the metal has been lost. SilverGlide Rust Inhibitor can be used to protect your cast iron tops.

Clean Blades and Cutters

If you skimp on cleaning your blades or cutters, they can become contaminated with resins and wood components. A dull, dirty blade or cutter doesn’t cut as efficiently or neatly and increases the chance of injuring the operator. By removing contaminants you won’t need to sharpen or replace your blade as often. Use a cleaning agent that won’t scratch or dull the surface then use a soft brush or rag to remove the contaminants before rinsing and drying thoroughly.

Sharpen the Edge of Tools

You can save yourself some frustration and valuable work time by sharpening your edge tools all at once. There is nothing more annoying than picking up a tool in the middle of your project to find you need to stop and sharpen it. Some of the tools that need sharpening include your chisels, planes, knives, carving tools, turning tools and scissors. Choose whether you prefer to use a flat stone or a powered sharpening system to keep your tools razor sharp and ready to use. Remember to match the existing angle of the bevel before refining and honing the edge.

Clean the Router’s Collet Parts

Collets can hold a build-up of contaminants which can harden to a shiny residue. The collet can then struggle to hold the bit properly. Use WD-40 and a brush to clean the collet and the receptacle machined into the spindle on a regular basis.



Once you have completed your maintenance schedule a few times, your tools won’t need as much attention, and you won’t need to spend as much time.

Setting up your Woodworking Router

Buying yourself a new woodworking router is pretty exciting. A router opens up the possibility of completing a raft of new projects. You will want to get in there straight away and start making some grooves but it’s important you get to know your new tool before you unleash it on your project. It can take time to learn how to do the set-up correctly particularly if you haven’t used a router much before.

Types of Routers

There are two main kinds of routers – handheld where you take your router to your project and a table-mounted router where you take your project to the tool. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. For many woodworkers just starting out, they choose the hand held option and may move to a mounted option later.

Set-up of your Router

To get started, you will need to insert the bit. Rather than dropping the bit into the collet and tightening, find the bottom of the recess and then move it a centimetre or two from the bottom before tightening. If the bit is touching the bottom you may jam the shank against the end of the recess. You shouldn’t need too much pressure to tighten the collet. If you use two wrenches for the job squeeze together with one hand. To loosen reverse the wrench action.

Securing your Project

Now that the bit is secure, you want to make sure your project isn’t going to move around on your bench. If not secured properly you risk injuring yourself and damaging your work. Depending on your piece, use a vice, bench dogs, I beam risers and clamps to safely attach it to the bench. Risers make it easier on your back and the bit is unobstructed by the bench.

Guiding the Router

A router is usually guided by a bit’s pilot bearing, a fence, a template-guided bushing or edge guide. Which guide you use will depend on whether you are using a template and the location of the cut.

A pilot’s bearing is a shielded ball bearing that sits under or over the cutter, suitable for straight or curved work surfaces. The project can ride against the bearing or a template that is attached to the project. When using a bearing guided bit, be careful to not let the router tip by using firm downward pressure and keeping one handle over your work.

A fence can be offset blocks or a self-clamping straight edge which the base of the router can run along. Move the router left to right when facing the bearing edge of the fence.

Template guides or guide bushings are collars attached to the sub-base of a router. The bit is longer than the bushing and rides along the edge of a template. The size of the bushing will depend on the diameter of the bit.

An edge guide attaches to the bottom of the router through one or two extension rods. A fence attaches to the edge guide and can be adjusted to any location on the rods. The fence then rides along the edge of the project to cut dadoes, grooves and mortises.

Remember to always use sharp, good quality bits in your router. Most routers use interchangeable collets so you can use either ¼ or ½ inch diameter bits in your router. When you have a choice of bit sizes, use the larger one so the collet has more to grip and chatter is minimised.

Practice Makes Perfect

As eager as you may be to get started on your project, it’s a good idea to practice with your router first. Try using as many different guides and bits as you own on different scrap materials to see how the router behaves. Draw lines on your material to ensure the accuracy of your cuts is spot on and before long you will be ready to get started on your projects.

Busting the Dust Problem in your Workshop

Wood dust and shavings are the bane of most workshops. In years gone by, woodworkers only had a broom and dustpan to tidy up the workshop floor. Nowadays we have sophisticated dust collectors suitable for hobby workshops right through to commercial factories.

The Problem with Dust

Sawdust was once just a messy nuisance but with improved medical knowledge we now know that dust is harmful to our health. Working in any kind of dusty environment can lead to significant health problems and sawdust is no exception.

The tiny wood dust particles in the air that are breathed in over long periods of time are considered to be potential carcinogens. Dust from MDF and imported wood can also cause allergic reactions in some woodworkers. With a good dust extraction system, you can now use power or hand tools all day and be able to breath clean air and not need to ever pick up a broom; something our forefathers could have only dreamed about.

Collecting the Dust

There are many products on the market that you can use to keep the air and workshop floor sparkling clean.

Wet/Dry Vacuum Cleaner

A good addition to a workshop is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner. Having a vacuum cleaner that can clean up spills as well as dry dirt can come in handy. The SWARTS Tools Wet & Dry Vacuum is ideal because it has a HEPA filter.

The filter forces air through a fine mesh trapping 99.97% of tiny particles. There is a cover over the air intake to ensure water doesn’t get sucked into the HEPA filter. A drainage plug at the bottom of the barrel makes for easy emptying of the water.

Air Filter

An air filter room cleaner will remove small particles from your workshop air. For the most efficient results, fit your filter to the workshop ceiling where most of the ambient dust is. A remote control and timer means you can turn the unit on and leave it on for two hours after you have finished in the workshop. This ensures that less dust settles on workshop surfaces after you have finished for the day.

If you are working in a dusty environment, take some measures to keep the dust out of your lungs, eyes and ears.

The most efficient way of keeping your workshop air clean is to collect the dust at the source not once it’s floating in the air and all over your floor.

Dust Extractor

A dust extractor will remove dust from machines such as a table saw, band saw, lathes and sanders. You can choose a dust extractor that suits the size of your machine and how much you use it. Dust extractors are available in 1HP, 2HP, 3HP and industrial sizes.

Some new tools and machines have dust exhaust ports but you can still use a dust extractor with old tools by adding ports and improving hose fittings. If your sander has a dust bag or canister, remove it and attach a dust extractor for better quality dust collection. You can buy a range of dust collection fittings and connectors.


Clean up your workshop environment by investing in a dust extraction system. Not only will you save time by not pushing a broom around but your lungs will thank you for it.

What you Need to Consider When Buying a Woodworking Router

Chances are it won’t be long into your woodworking hobby that you will want a router. Whether you need to cut some circles, shape edges, hollow out grooves, a router will make life easier and make your project look more professional than trying to do it by hand.

There is no shortage of routers to choose from either. Unless you spend most of your day routing, you won’t need to buy every kind of router available. What you need is a versatile router and accessories that can do the tasks you require.

Features of a Router

Follow our guide to make sure you buy a router that is going to last the distance and deliver a great looking project every time.

Speed

Check that the router has sufficient fast and slow speeds. Both are important because with different materials and bits you need to be able to vary the speed at which the machine is working. You will want a slow speed for big bits or when you are working with a type of wood that can burn or tear-out. A router should also be able to maintain its speed during the cut and not drop its rpm too much.

Balance

You will want your router to be stable both during adjustments and cuts. Some routers can be top heavy and more prone to tip than others. It’s particularly noticeable when you are routing along edges and corners. Ease of handling is an important consideration; you want to be concentrating on the material not making sure the tool isn’t going to tip over when you are using a router.

Adjusting your Router

When it comes time to do a fixed depth routing job, you will want a router that adjusts up and down quickly. There is nothing more frustrating than spending twice as long making the adjustments than it takes to make the actual cut.

Hand-held or Table

If you are going to move between hand-held and table routing often, you will need to look at the type of router you buy. A plunge router typically takes longer to change compared to those with multi-base kits. With a kit you can attach the base permanently to the table and just swap the motor into the plunge base for projects that require a handheld router.

Accessories

Before you buy your router, consider what accessories are available for that model. To get the most out of your router, you will need the right accessories. Think about whether you will want to add dust collection, sub-bases with different size openings, an edge guide and possibly a case for carrying or storing. Some brands and models will fit a range of accessories while other brands are more limited.

Choosing your Cabinet Handle Finishes

Call them what you like - cabinet handles, knobs, locks, latches, ring pulls, drawer pulls - the humble handle comes in many varieties of material, colour and design.

Choosing the correct cabinet handle finish can make or break your project. The handle is vital to the open and closing function of the cabinet while the handle’s design can completely change the look.

Here we check out some of the options you have to choose from in cabinet handle finishes.

Chrome Plated

Chrome plated cabinet handles are standard for many furniture designers. Their shiny finish stands the test of time, without suffering from damage and discolouration.

Polished Brass

Polished brass is a classic material that is the preferred option of many artisans. There is an appeal that can’t be found with other materials, especially after it has aged a little and began to discolour gracefully.

Ivory

The ivory look is beautiful and ornate, ideal for cabinets that need an antique touch to finish off the look. Crazed porcelain has a similar finish to the old-fashioned ivory.

Antique Copper

Antique copper is a finish that is very distinctive, being the colour of pots and pans of yesteryear. It has a vibrant quality that is ideal for vintage pieces.

Antique Brass

Antique brass is the more classically appreciated version of a brass finish. It goes well with old world cabinet designs.

Matt Black

Matt black is a more recent invention. With the right design, matt black can look quite futuristic and minimalist. Many contemporary designed cabinets will use matt black handles as their finishing touch.

Polished Metal

Polished metal finishes are the most versatile and long-lasting. Their finish doesn’t age or change, unlike some other metals.

Polished Nickel

Polished nickel has a very clean, stylish look and is used in modern, contemporary cabinetry. Similar to chrome because of its silver look, polished nickel has a warmer tone.

Satin Chrome

Another contemporary look, satin chrome is a little more subdued and less shiny than chrome. Its understated look suits a range of designs.

Satin Nickel

One of the most versatile finishes, satin nickel has a metallic pearl finish that can complement everything from bright to neutral colours.

Installing your Cabinet Handles

Remember to use a cardboard template of your drawer front to ensure your drawer handles are straight and in line with the drawers above, below and to the side. Use a pencil to mark where you will drill then check all the dots line up. You don’t want to spend time deciding on the right drawer handle finish only to be distracted by the fact that they aren’t all aligned properly! Before drilling, clamp a piece of wood at the back of the drawer, so you don’t tear the drawer's material as you drill through.

Which of These Four Woodworking Mallets is Right for You?

There are plenty of woodworking mallets on the market but how do you know which is the right one for your project? You don’t want to be whacking your woodworking tools with any old hammer or you could find yourself replacing some of your favourite tools. Use the right mallet that does the job without damaging your tools or project.

Cabinetmakers Mallet

Wooden mallets are gentle on tools and wooden projects compared to steel hammers which can leave dents, break or mushroom the wooden handle of your chisels.

The two striking faces mean you can use one side for smooth, clean work and the other side for driving out bolts which may damage the face.

Wrist action rather than a swinging arm is usually needed, so the face is at a 90-degree angle. For fine carving work, users can hold the mallet further up the handle near the head. Choose one with a head that isn’t too big or too small for you to use comfortably.

Carpenters Mallet

Also known as the ‘general mallet’, the carpenters mallet has a short, shaped handle and large head for working with chisels and wedges. These mallets are also suitable for blunt force tasks such as banging together a carcase. Beechwood, hornbeam and ash woods are often used in the manufacture of mallets with the head and handle made from different materials.

Carvers Mallet

The rounded mallet gives solid contact even when hit from odd angles. Being smaller and more delicate than carpenters mallets, carvers mallets are ideal for using with carving chisels rather than heavier woodworking tasks.

Brass Head Carving Mallet

When cutting a mortise or carving wood, you want the full force of a strike to be forward. A wooden mallet striking a wooden handle results in a forward and backward motion as it bounces.

A brass head means there is no bounce and the full energy of the blow is used. A rounded head allows you to strike the mallet at any angle and the strike only needs to come from the wrist as a light, controlled tap rather than a swing of the arm like bigger mallets require. These mallets offer you the accuracy and control you need for more delicate woodworking projects.

Which Brand of Mallet?

Like most woodworking tools on the market, you get what you pay for. A good quality brand will give you many years of service if you look after your tools. Fortunately, there are three well-known, quality brands producing mallets for use with their woodworking tools.

The Veritas is a well-known Canadian brand. Veritas is the manufacturing arm of Lee Valley Tools Ltd which is a leading US retailer of woodworking tools. Veritas produces 250 products which are used by discerning woodworkers around the world.

For over 50 years Crown Tools has been manufacturing woodworking hand tools from its factory in Sheffield England. For the majority of their products, old and new techniques are used to hand forge, temper and grind tools.

Two Cherries is another brand that has been turning out quality tools for decades from its German factory. Its craftsmen are using time-honoured techniques to produce tools that can last more than a generation.

Cabinetmaking Chisels Explained

The chisel is a fundamental woodworking tool and is invaluable to any woodworker, regardless of the size and type of work. Whether you are making standard furniture or a grand work of art, a good quality chisel is one of the first tools you should buy.

If you are looking to delve into woodworking in particular cabinetmaking, having some knowledge of the variety of chisels used is quite important. The following is a list of the chisels that are typically used in cabinetmaking.

Bevel Edge Chisel

The bevel edge chisel is uniquely shaped, in that it has a tapering edge on both side-edges as well as the point. The taper is only biased on one side while the other is completely flat, for easy sharpening of the point.

A bevel edge chisel is used to chip away large amounts of wood, as well as create finer shapes such as dovetails.

Butt Chisel

A butt chisel is basically a cabinet making chisel that has a blade shorter than 10 cm. It gets its name from short blades used in fixing butt hinges. The handle of the butt chisel is often short and bulbous towards the end, with a flat surface for hammer striking.

Cranked Neck Chisel

A cranked neck chisel has a unique offset handle and a neck that is sloped downward. This allows the blade to run more flat on the wood surface, and work like a plane, removing glue and excess wood. It is very useful for difficult to reach places and can be used with a hammer more easily, as it can provide a more direct contact point between the blade and wood, with the blade point angled correctly.

Cabinet Corner Cleaning Chisel

This type of chisel has a blade that is angled around a third of the way towards the end. This angle lets the chisel work at a very high angle, which is good for evening out corners, as the name suggests. The blade is generally long and narrow, and the point is sometimes tapered as well.

Cabinet Mortise Chisel

A mortise chisel is quite tough, with a thicker blade and stronger handle, which can sustain heavy hits from a hammer. The common usage is to break mortise joints, which needs a stronger blade and tougher point. The mortise chisel can come in a number of sizes, but they are on the larger side.

Cabinet Paring Chisels

This chisel is used for removing much smaller and finer quantities of wood, for mostly decorative work. The chisel is very similar to a bevel edge chisel, with the only difference being the thinner blade and handle, and the different usage. Additionally, the blade of a cabinet paring chisel is slightly flexible, though this may not be the case with most cabinet paring chisels.

Skew Paring Chisels

A skewed paring chisel has a frontal point that is leaning on one side, which gives it a sharp point and a leaning edge. They are used to clean out the dovetail sockets, a task that requires a slight one-sided taper on the point.

Spring Loaded Corner Chisel

A spring loaded corner chisel uses a compact, cuboid design which is held on top of a corner, and the point is then hammered down to remove wood from the corner of the cabinet. The blade is hidden inside the frame and retracts back to the loaded position after the wood has been removed with a hammer strike.

What to Look for in a Router Table

A router table is one of the handiest inclusions in your workshop. If you want to do moulded edges, dadoes, mortises and multiple curves that match a template you will be wise to invest in a good quality router and table to match. The router table allows you to have both hands free from holding the tool and converts a portable power tool into a stationary power tool making it more versatile and usable.

Convenience

A router table means your router is always ready to use. There is less set-up time required and less mess because your dust extractor is attached and ready to go.

A router table needs to provide good support and guidance for your workpiece.

Attachments

There is a range of individual accessories and combinations that you can use on your router table. These include guards, fences, mitre gauges and dust extractors.

Choose a fence opening that can be easily adjusted and look at the surface of the table to make sure any material can pass over it safely.

A router table also allows you to use feather boards, a mitre gauge and hold-downs which wouldn’t be possible with a hand-held router.

Safety

A router is one of the most dangerous woodworking tools available. A router table can make your router safer to use than a hand-held router.

When the router is moving between 3,000 and 25,000 rpm, you don’t want to slip or make a mistake. Your hand or a finger can be seriously injured. It doesn’t matter how careful you are; accidents can happen. A moment’s lapse of concentration is all it takes. Spend the time to set up your table with the right guards and fences for the project you are currently working on. If you are unsure how to use the safety equipment, take the time to find out from the manufacturer or online.

Make sure you use a table that is compatible with your router. Obviously, a heavy duty router needs a heavy table to hold it properly. The more accessories you attach to your table the more weight it adds to the table. Before upgrading your router and accessories, check if you will need to replace your table to hold your upgrades. Read more about router table safety here.

More about Router Tables

If you're still not sure about what you want in a router table, it is recommended that you speak to an expert who can present you with more information on what to look for in a router table that would be beneficial to your business. 

Sharpening your Woodworking Tools – Hand Planes

The skill of sharpening your tools is as important as the skill of using your woodwork hand tools. A good sharpening session can turn your grandfather’s old plane into a sentimental but highly valued tool. A brand new, budget plane can perform as well as their higher priced cousin with the right sharpening.

Machine Marks

If you have bought a premium plane, you may not need to do much to it once you have taken it out of the box. Less expensive planes may need a little more attention. Inspect the blade carefully for any machining marks. If you find any marks, you will need to flatten and polish the back of the blade. Start with the coarsest grit and work your way up through the grits until the marks are removed, and you have a mirror finish. Only worry about the edge of the blade’s back as the rest of the blade won’t touch the wood so the machine marks can remain.

Bevel Edge

The primary bevel of your plane edge should be 25 degrees unless it’s needed for work on a difficult grain. If your bevel is not the right angle, the edge isn’t square or is damaged, you will need to re-grind it. A water-cooled, large grinder will make the job easy but with a little patience you can do the job with sandpaper. Once you are happy with the edge, you can start to polish it. Use various sandpapers to get a polished mirror finish. A honing guide will help you achieve the desired result.

If your blade is in poor condition with rust or bad nicks, it may be wise to replace the blade. You can spend hours trying to get a blade into a usable condition and find it is too severely damaged. Make the call early and decide if it can be salvaged or not. Several manufacturers still make blades to fit the width of old planes, just ask.

Micro Bevel

Once you are happy with your bevel edge, it is time to start work on the micro bevel. This secondary bevel should be around 2-5% higher than the primary one. No new planes come with a micro bevel so all blades need some work to achieve this. Start with coarse sandpaper to establish a thin, even line across the blade’s tip. Use your highest grit and then polishing stone for another mirror finish.

Once you have a perfectly sharp and honed plane blade, you will only need to work on the micro bevel with a fine stone regularly.

Camber or Left Straight

One decision woodworkers need to make about their new planes is whether to camber the edge or leave it straight. Newbie woodworkers can benefit from a cambered edge because it is more forgiving than a straight edge. If you don’t set the blade at an equal depth on both sides, it can dig in more on one side.

To camber use your stone to take slightly more metal the further from the middle. Count the number of strokes you use on the first side so you can repeat evenly on the other side. You should see a slight curvature on the cutting edge. Planes used on heavier timber can have a greater curvature.

If you want to reduce the time, it takes to camber your plane and, you want to preserve your stone, use a power or hand-cranked grinder.

Make it a habit to check the edge of your plane’s blade every time you begin a project. A perfectly sharpened and honed blade edge can make the job easier and the result more precise.

More information on Hand Planes

If you still need more information on tools for sharpening woodwork, it is best to speak to an expert who can guide you with information on the right type of hand planes for your business. 

Woodworking Tools to Get Started

So you’ve decided to start a woodworking project, you will need some tools. With thousands of tools to choose from how do you know which ones you need now and which ones can wait? We’ve put together a list of what we consider to be essential tools to get some basic woodworking projects under your belt. With time you will be able to add to your tool collection and tackle more difficult projects, but this list will give you the basics every workshop needs.

If you are on a tight budget, be wary of buying more cheap tools rather than fewer quality tools. There is a good chance you will need to replace the cheap ones with a better quality product within a few years.

Workbench

Without a sturdy surface you can’t start any projects. You will need something to secure your wood to before planing or sawing. You can put in a fixed workbench or buy a mobile bench if you need the flexibility of moving it around your workshop. Just make sure your workbench will be big and sturdy enough to handle a vice.

Chisels

You will need a set of bevel edge bench chisels to get you started. A few different size blades will ensure you have the right chisel for every paring and chopping job. The multipurpose bench chisel is so named because they are used often enough that they are rarely put away. A mortise chisel is needed for heavy chopping of mortises. A paring chisel is thin and more delicate for slicing wood. Choose between wood or plastic handled chisels.

Later, when you have a project that calls for it, you can add some specialty chisels like paring and fishtail chisels.

Saws

A back saw is needed for accurate, fine wooden joints. A fine, rip teeth saw will allow you to cut along the grain. A tenon saw will be needed for heavier cuts along the grain. Fine crosscut teeth on a carcass saw can cut across the grain. A large mitre saw and mitre box will be needed if you need to cut your wood to accurate lengths and square for building boxes. A coping saw is required for removing waste if you are doing any dovetail joints.

Clamps

There aren't any general purpose clamps available for all projects. Several deep-throat bar clamps are fairly versatile because they have a long-arm stretch and deep reach. Spring clamps will act as a third hand when you need to hold the wood for painting and glueing.

Planes

If you are going to do traditional woodworking, then a plane is essential. There are multiple types you can invest in, but the two most common ones needed for the job are a block plane and jack plane. A block plane is smaller and can be used with one hand while the general purpose ‘jack of all trades’ plane can do some of the work of smoothing and jointer planes.

Squares & Tape Measure

Measure twice and cut once. Make sure you have a few tools including a good pencil for measuring and marking before cutting your wood. A combination square will help with measuring angles, determining flatness and marking.

Woodworking tools for your workspace

Choosing the right set of tools for a woodworking project can be a bit daunting. There's so much to choose from and if you're not careful, you may land up working with something that doesn't do the job. Since you're starting out, we recommend you have a quick chat with an expert who can help you decide which tools you'd need for your new woodwork project. 

Sharpening your Woodworking Tools - Chisels

If you look after your woodworking tools, they will most probably last longer than you. Part of taking care of your tools is keeping them sharp, so they are safe and enjoyable to use. A sharp tool will also give you the best result and will be ready to use whenever the next job calls for it.

Chisels require more sharpening and maintenance than most other woodworking tools to keep them in good order. Like most things, there is more than one way to sharpen a chisel. Some people prefer to use a jig while others prefer to do the job by hand with an oilstone, water stone or diamond stone. It’s personal preference which method you use, but a waterstone is a popular choice.

Waterstones are slightly softer than oilstones so you are left with clean sharp grit as the stone is worn away. Waterstones are available in a variety of sizes from 300 grit to 8000 grit. Reversible waterstones are also available to save you buying multiple stones of different grit. The 1000 grit side can be used for preparing and dressing the tool while the reversible 6000 grit is for sharpening.

To use your waterstone for sharpening your chisels:

1. Place your stone in water for around 5-10 minutes, so it’s soaking wet. For stones in excess of 4000 grit, you won’t need to soak them, just drop water on top. Place the stone somewhere that it won’t slip such as a waterstone holder but if you don’t have one, a piece of fine grit sandpaper secured to your workbench can do the job.

2. Next place your chisel into the honing guide with the bevel facing down and tighten the guide when the bevel is sitting flat on the bench. You want the entire bevel to touch the stone so it needs to sit flat in the guide. Place the honing guide’s wheel on the edge of the stone and place your fingers on the blade and thumbs behind.

3. Apply even pressure and give it several passes by going forward and back. Try to use as much of the stone as possible and also flip occasionally, so you don’t end up with a groove down the middle of your stone. Keep the stone wet by applying water.

4. Wipe the blade clean with a rag and check where it has been making contact with the stone. Wipe the residue off the stone. If needed change the chisel position and continue with the passes.

5. Move up through the finer grits of stone until you are happy with the edge you’ve created.

6. Your chisel will now be shiny and sharp. Some woodworkers stop here while others prefer to add a microbevel.

A microbevel is a very small bevel right on the edge of your already bevelled chisel. This is a future time saver as it allows you to sharpen just the microbevel if you are in the middle of a job and your chisel isn’t as sharp as you would like.

7. Adjust the honing guide so that you can slide the chisel back a tiny distance. Wet your stone, place your chisel down and pull the chisel back with steady strokes. Repeat a few times making sure the handle is at the same angle. Check to see you have a thin line on the end of the chisel blade.

8. Check the back of your chisel for any burrs. To remove a burr, place the chisel completely flat against the stone and do several passes.

The Different Types of Hand Clamps

There are so many clamps available on the market; it’s hard to know if you should buy one or two in every style or a fairly universal one that will cover most of your clamping requirements. But your workshop probably has limited space so buying one of everything is probably not going to work. Look at the types of projects you most commonly do and find a few clamps that will cover most of the projects you do.

Spring Clamp

Also known as pinch clamps, the spring clamp is small in size but big on power. Spring clamps are good for small repairs and as a third hand for holding items you need to glue or paint. The spring clamp offers easy release and even clamping pressure.

3-Way Edge Clamps

The 3-Way clamp is the traditional spring clamp with an additional spring that applies a third direction of pressure. The clamp can give you more than 10 kg of clamping pressure, providing a far better bond than tape alone.

Band Clamp

If you need to clamp curves, closed contours and other tricky clamping jobs, then a band clamp may be your friend. A canvas band clamp can provide even pressure on mitre joints and can have adjusted angles from 60 to 180 degrees. Pressure is applied by placing the band around the workpiece and pulling tight to lock in place.

Face 90 Degree Corner Clamp

This clamp allows you to align joints to a 90-degree angle when compressed. A swivel head allows you to adjust for material thickness.

Face Frame Clamp

If you are doing any pocket hole joinery, project construction or general clamping, a face frame clamp may be what you need. Swivel pads ensure there is no marring of your work piece and even force clamping.

One Hand Clamp

When you don’t have enough hands to hold the project and fit the clamp, invest in a one hand clamp. A lightweight clamp allows you to exert plenty of clamping pressure while only using a couple of fingers to complete the job. A good one hand clamp will allow you to swap between flat or angled grip pads within seconds.

Parallel Clamp

As the name suggests, this clamp allows the jaws to remain parallel to each other and stay at 90 degrees keeping your work piece square. A Parallel-K clamp can be used on right angles, round and pointed work pieces.

Pipe Clamp

Often lighter and cheaper than the traditional T-bar sash clamp, choose a pipe clamp with taller feet and a cast crank handle for tensioning the work piece.

Toggle Clamp

If you have a lot of repetitive clamping to do, the toggle clamp can save you time on your wood or metalwork projects. The clamping thickness can be increased by mounting a spacer under the clamp base.

Throat Clamp

Also known as F-clamps, look for a throat clamp that has a soft grip handle and flexible cast-iron heads that won’t crack under pressure.

Miter Clamp

Used for gripping two mitred edge pieces together at right angles. There are internal (upper) and external (lower) types available.

Hand clamps for woodwork projects

Choosing the right hand clamps is crucial and you can't afford to go wrong. We highly recommend that you speak to an expert at Timbecon who can provide more information on the different types of hand clamps to make working on your woodwork projects easier.  

How to Choose the Right Vice

The design of the bench vice hasn’t changed much in years. It's still a very handy tool to have, but with so many on the market, it's hard to choose the right one. Make the wrong choice however and you will have years of frustration trying to use a vice that doesn’t hold parts firm or isn’t big enough to accommodate your workpiece. But how can you tell which is the right bench vice for your workshop and what should you consider when making a purchase?

What you Will Use the Vice For

Different types of vices will suit different jobs. A woodworker will want a different vice to a machinist, model maker or homeowner.

What to Check when Buying

Size matters when you are purchasing a vice. You want one that is big enough to handle the projects but not too big that your budget or workbench suffers.

Length of Jaws - a 4 to 5-inch length of the jaws from end to end will be able to handle a household DIY job but may not be sufficient for a woodworker.

Throat Depth - the throat depth is measured from the top of the jaws to the top of the slide below. The longer the throat, the larger the pieces it can hold.

Weight – if you are going to be whacking the vice with an anvil, you will want a vice that can take the punishment. However, don’t always go for the heaviest vice you can find if your workbench isn’t a solid construction.

Rotation – consider if you want your vice to be able to swivel 360 or 180 degrees once mounted on the bench.

Mounting – if you want to move your vice off your bench or move it around regularly then you will want one that can be easily removed. Look at the way it's mounted to the bench – bolts, suction cap or clamp – and find the one that will suit you best.

8 Steps for Organising your Workspace

Whether you are just starting out in a new workshop or you are organising an existing workshop, follow these steps for a clean, organised workspace. You will be able to find things quicker and get the job done with less frustration. If you do the job properly you will be thanking yourself for years to come.

Step 1 Clean Out

Pull everything out. It’s a big job but if you want to give your workshop a thorough revamp, you need to start with a clean slate. Sort through all of your gear and decide what you are going to keep, donate and throw out. Only keep what you think you will use so you can maximise the space available. Order a skip bin if you have a lot of junk to get rid of so you aren’t storing anything while you wait for your wheelie bin to be emptied.

Step 2 Spruce Up

If the walls and ceiling are metal, wash them down. If you have plaster walls and ceiling, fill any cracks and holes and give it a fresh coat of paint. Either use a roller if it’s a small area or for a quicker job on larger workshops, use an air powered sprayer.

Step 3 Flooring

If your floors are rough and a trip hazard, think about replacing them now. Remember you may not do another big clean out of your workshop for ten years (or ever) so think about your much older self. You don’t want to stop using your workshop when you are in your 70’s or 80’s because it is too hazardous. If your flooring is in good condition, look at getting a rubber mat or old carpet if you need some cushioning for long days in the workshop.

Step 4 Lighting

Decide if you have adequate lighting in the workshop. If not organise for an electrician to install a new light fitting otherwise replace the globe in your current fitting to see if that makes a difference. For safety and ease of working particularly when it’s fine close-up work, you need good lighting in your work area. Use task lighting if natural and overhead lights aren’t adequate.

Step 5 Workbench

Have a look at your workbench and decide if you need to modify your existing one by changing the height or adding a shelf underneath for storage. If you are buying a new workbench, look at the type of projects you will be working on and find one that best matches the tools you will be using most.

Non slip mats are available to keep your project in place while you are working on it.

Step 6 Storage

To maximise your available space and to make it easy to find things when you need them, sort out your storage. Decide what you need easy, regular access to and what you don’t so those items can go at the back or up high.

Get your stock up off the floor with a woodrack storage system. Store tools neatly under the bench or on the wall so they aren’t damaged and can be found easily.

Step 7 Safety First

If you are storing chemicals in your workshop, make sure they are kept away from any heat sources. If you don’t already have one or it’s out of date, buy a new fire extinguisher to keep in case of an emergency.

Step 8 Keep it Clean

After all your hard work getting your workshop to where it is, you want to be able to keep it clean easily. If you are working with wood, chances are your workshop is regularly filled with dust and shavings. If you have had enough of the dust and you want to work in a healthier environment, invest in a dust extractor or air filter.

Choosing your Router Bits

A workshop wall can be covered with one hundred router bits with different profiles, shank sizes and tip types. To the untrained eye one router bit can look the same as the bit next to it. So how do you determine which router bit you need for your job?

Half Inch V Quarter Inch

The ¼ and ½ inch size you see on router bits refers to the shank size which is the cylinder that fits into the router collet. The ½ inch shank has four times the mass of ¼ inch shanks and provides greater stability when in use. The extra mass reduces vibrations and offers a solid cut. However, when you need to route a very thin profile, the ¼ inch is far more practical.

Profiles

There are 10 basic profiles that can be used singularly or in combination to achieve most basic and complex routing projects.

Beading Bit - provides a rounded shape to the edge of the stock with a square shoulder on the top and bottom edges of the roundover.

Chamfer Bit - a 45-degree angled cut on the square edge of a piece of stock.

Cove Bit - applies a concave, rounded profile on the stock.

Dado Straight Cutting Bit - a variety of straight cutting bits can be used to cut a square in the middle of a stock.

Dovetail Bit - this profile has a flat bottom with angled sides which are wider at the base.

Rabbet Bit - a right angle cut, like a dado on the edge of a piece of stock.

Round Nose Bit - similar to the cove bit, except the cut is made in the middle of a piece of stock.

Roundover Bit - creates a rounded profile on the square edge of a piece of stock.

V-Groove Bit - as the name suggests a V shape cut in the centre of the stock.

Ogee Bit - a compound S shaped profile.

Speed of your Router

Some router motors allow you to choose the speed to match the type of wood you are routing. A bit that is running too high an RPM can burn the wood while if it spins too slow it can leave a ragged rough cut. Remember, the general rule is the larger the bit, the slower the router speed.

Timbecon stock some of the highest quality router bit and accessories available.

Mouter Plunge Router Bits - If you have a recess that needs routing out then this is the ideal profile. Designed for maximum stock removal and chip injection, they can clear out any material. If you have multiple hinges to do, pair the bit with a bearing guide for perfect repetition. These bits are available in several different shank sizes and cutting diametres.

CMT Router Bits - CMT Orange Tools are one of the preferred brands. Timbecon carries an extensive range of different router bits designed for different jobs. From Chamfer router bits to cabinet making and small arch door and box joint sets.

Torquata Router Bits - Quality made bits available in the shapes and sizes you need to get the job done. Made especially for Timbecon, Torquata even has Australia’s first triple-bladed bit for heavy duty applications. Torquata is available in jointing bits, mould and trim bits and router bit sets.

Milescraft - If it’s signmaking router bits you’re looking for, the Signpro can make professional horizontal and vertical signs.

Accessories

Router Bit Tidies - keep all of your bits in the one place and not get damaged with a tidy. Available for ½ inch and ¼ inch bits.

Bit Sharpener - a double-sided stainless steel sharpener with coarse 300 grit diamond grade for the edge and fine coarse 600 grit diamond grade for honing the primary edge.

Router Bit Lock Rings, Screws and Washers - high quality long life hardware that can be used on Torquata, CMT, Carbitool and other brands of router bits.

Planning your Woodworking Project

To achieve the best outcome from every woodworking project, you need to spend some time on planning and preparation. We all want to go out and choose our perfect piece of wood and get cutting but a little effort in the early stages can pay off in the long run.

Planning

Start by asking yourself what you want to achieve from your project and the function of the piece? Knowing what the end product needs to do, allows you to move forward and start sketching it out. If you are looking for some ideas or inspiration, check out these sites.

Instructables Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Popular Woodworking Magazine

Minwax

Popular Mechanics

The Family Handyman

Before you finalise your design or sketches, check if your design can’t be improved with an addition here or a modification there. Again you can turn to the internet for advice and pictures to make sure you are completely happy with your piece long term. Once your design is finalised, you will be able to confirm the materials you will be using. You will need to know if you will be making a solid wood project or a veneer project. Price the materials you need to ensure they are within budget.

The Right Tools and Materials

There is nothing worse than getting into your project and being forced to stop because you don’t have the right tools on hand. Different tools, cutters and methods are needed depending on your materials. Decide early on what router bits, saw blades or cutters you will need to complete the project and order them now. If you don’t want to buy any new tools, then you have the option of changing your design now before you buy any materials.

Similarly to your tools, you will want to check if you need to buy more glue, fillers, sealers and finishes. There is nothing more frustrating than getting everything ready to glue only to find it has gone hard. Having everything on hand means you aren’t wasting time on multiple orders or trips to the hardware store.

Your Project

Once you have all the wood, tools and other materials on hand, you can get started. As part of your planning and information for next time, keep notes on any difficulties or tricks you come across, so you know for similar projects you undertake in the future. Every piece of information can help. It’s hard to remember the time-saving tricks you discover so write it down in a notebook or on your computer for easy reference.

Remember to take a photo of your finished piece and share it with the online woodworking community on your favourite forum or blog. Fellow woodworkers may be looking for the inspiration your piece provides.

All that is left to do is enjoy your piece and start planning your next project.

The Best in Table Top Routers

If you are someone who uses a router regularly, it’s wise to invest in a table top. A table makes the job easier, safer and more accurate. With a router table, it won’t take you long to master working with long, narrow or small stock, edge trimming, grooves, dadoes, slots, dovetail and box joinery. The projects are endless .

Choosing your Table Top Router

A table top router should last many years, so it’s important you choose a good quality table offering accuracy and stability. Timbecon did plenty of research before deciding which brands to stock. We looked at each model and checked to see if the tables were:

Good design - the table needs to be able to handle large workpieces and be comfortable for the average person to use.

Sturdy - the table needs to be strong and able to withstand years of use before showing signs of wear and tear.

Precision - if the table doesn’t offer perfect accuracy every time it didn’t make the cut.

In the end, we decided to stock the Baladonia and Kreg brands because they met our requirements and offer customers good value for money. Below we’ve listed a few of the table top routers and accessories we stock.

24x16in MDF/Phenolic Router Table Kit

Not everyone is looking for a heavy cast-iron table top router. Made from 32mm-thick HMR (High Moisture Resistant) and 2mm black PVC edge banding, you can expect a long life from your table if it is kept in a workshop, not exposed to humidity long-term. The stand is a heavy-duty L-angle steel powder-coated in burnt ochre with plenty of bracing.

This table top is also available in a huge 32x24in size with the posts made from heavy tubular steel with thick steel braces.

27x16in Cast-Iron Table Kit

If it’s cast-iron you want, then you will find plenty in this Baladonia benchtop router table. The table is cast then precision CNC-machined multiple times, so it’s dead flat and also has stress-relieving and strengthening ribs on the underside of the table for maximum strength.

27x16in Deluxe Cast Iron Router Table Kit

If you are looking for the Rolls Royce in router tables, look no further. This Baladonia kit has had every component and accessory bolted on including a lift, dust collection box, Super Flat Fence, two horizontal and two vertical featherboards and a fence flip stop.

Kreg Benchtop Router Table

If you need an industrial grade table top with full-size capabilities plus portability, you can’t go past this table. Made from an edge-banded, vibration and noise resistant MDF it features an Easy-Slide™ Micro-Dot skin. The high-pressure laminate allows your work pieces to slide across the surface easily.

Accessories

There are a few accessories to consider when you are buying a table top router.

Router Table Dust Collection Box

Keep your workshop clean and healthy with a dust collection box that picks up around 98% of all dust because the collection point is right next to the bit and underneath the table. This dust collection box has been designed to mount to the underside of the Baladonia MDF table or the bottom of your home-made table top.

Right Angle Fixture

If you are using a Baladonia Router Table Fence and you do a lot of fine vertical routing then it makes sense to invest in a right angle fixer, to make life easier. Produced from heavy-duty extruded aluminium, the right-angle fixture runs in the t-slot on the top of the fence via a matching precision-milled UHMW t-profile.

Table Switch

If you are building a table rather than buying one then a remote switch is a must. This one can be mounted on an MDF Top Router Table. Rated up to 10 amps.

Extension Support Frame

If you have a Baladonia 32x24in table top then an extension is a great accessory to have if you work with end-grain or panel product like MDF or chipboard. The extender gives you an extra 500mm of support.

Mitre Guide

The solid mitre guide that comes with all Baladonia deluxe router table stands is now available to buy separately. The mitre bar is the standard-size 3/4 x 3/8in (19 x 9.5mm) and has a good quality protractor.

Standard Fence

This Kreg fence is made of anodized aluminum and features a table saw-style T-square adjustment system. The fence can be easily adjusted with one hand and locks firmly in place with dual locks.

What to Look for in a Table Saw

Buying a table saw can be a big decision. Firstly, a table is a sizeable investment compared to most of your other tools in the workshop. Table saws have a long life, so you will want to happy with your choice because there is a good chance you will have it for the rest of your life. They also take up a fair amount of space in your workshop, so you want your table to be a hard-working unit that you enjoy using.

There are many brands on the market, but Timbecon chooses to stock Sherwood table saws. The UK-based company is well-known for its high quality cutting tools and machines. They invest heavily in R&D and provide tools for drilling, milling, sawing, threading, countersinking and reaming.

1. Power

Before you make your purchase, think about your requirements for power. A hobbyist with small project pieces won’t need the same level of power that a commercial workshop will need. For example, a 2-inch thick piece of hardwood should be fine on a 1.5 to 2 horsepower table saw but if the hardwood is any thicker, then a 3.5 to 5 horsepower motor is required.

2. Safety Features

Look at the safety features available on the table saw before you purchase. Being able to operate the on/off switch with your knee, hip or foot allows you to keep both hands on your piece which may save a finger but also save your work from unfortunate slips.

Being able to adjust the height of your table saw is not just important for short or tall people. An easily adjustable table allows you to change the height with every project. Working at the ideal height means you are less at risk of back, neck and repetitive strain injuries.

If you haven’t used a table saw regularly, then the safest option is to go with one that has a left blade tilt rather than right. Bevel and angle cuts require the saw to be angled from its usual 90-degree position.

A No-Volt Release (NVR) switch makes sure your table saw doesn’t automatically startup when the power is restored following an outage. A serious injury could occur if you were working or leaning against your table saw and it started without warning.

Kickback can cause injuries but you can minimise these with a table saw that uses a riving knife instead of a splitter as the splitter can be removed from the machine. The 10in Standard Cabinet Saw boasts a quick release riving knife system.

3. Dust Collection

Having a table saw that collects the dust isn’t just a nice feature for keeping the workshop clean. Dust extractors reduce the quantity of sawdust in the air which helps with air quality. The less wood dust in the air, the less you are breathing in. The Sherwood models have different dust extractors depending on the type of saw.

The Sherwood 10in Contractor Saw has a dust port built into the top part of the base to ensure maximum dust extraction.

The Sherwood 10in Hybrid Saw provides a 4in dust outlet at the rear of the cabinet base.

The Sherwood 10in Standard Cabinet Saw has a 4in dust outlet built into the rear of the cabinet base.

4. Portability

If you need to move your table saw from job to job, you may need one that can be easily transported in the back of a ute or trailer. The 10in Worksite Saw makes it easy to move your saw table around or when it’s not in use, fold up the stand and store out of the way so you have more room in a tight workshop.

5. Easy to Use

If you are a hobbyist who is only going to use your table saw on the odd occasion, you are at risk of not becoming familiar with it, simply because you don’t use it enough. Even if you do use it regularly then stop, it's easy to forget how to use it between projects. Before you purchase your table saw, check that you are going to be able to change the blades easy enough, calibrate your machine and use it to complete your projects.

Choosing the Right Vice

Make the right choice in a vice and it will soon become your second set of strong, sturdy hands. Depending on the type of work you do, you may need just one vice or various purpose-built vices.

Choose the Correct Vice for Your Workshop

To ensure your vice becomes a valued piece of equipment in your workshop that lasts the distance, you need to choose one that best meets your needs. A machinist will choose a different vice to a woodworker. If it’s general household work that you need a vice for, then you will need a basic, all-round vice.

Quick Action Bench Vice

The Quick Action Bench Vice is a good all-rounder. Thousands of these vices appear in home workshops and schools throughout Australia. The handles are made from a solid 17mm steel bar, so they don’t bend. The peg is height adjustable to allow for it to be used in conjunction with bench dogs to clamp work above the benchtop. The cast iron jaws are tapered to allow you to clamp anything that is slightly out of square. Both jaws have holes pre-cast so you can attach wooden sub-faces to prevent timber from being marked. Jigs can also be fixed to hold odd-shaped material. The vice is available in three sizes – 175mm, 230mm and 265mm.

Front Vice Screws

This vice type is most commonly used for woodworking jobs. The solid cast iron plate is mounted underneath the bench so that the edge of the bench acts as one clamping face and another jaw is mounted on the vice front. Timber is ideal for use in the clamp jaws to protect the gripped item.

The clamp uses three posts (two guides and a screw) for smooth adjustment and even clamping pressure. The brackets are made from solid cast iron with a powder coating to ensure a long-life.

The Baladonia vice is available in two sizes – small and large. The small vice has a clamping capacity of 210mm while the large can clamp up to 330mm (both sizes are minus the wooden jaw thickness).

Cross Slide Vice

Another Baladonia vice made of solid cast iron construction, the cross slide vice is ideal for fine adjustment when making mortice joints and positioning work for drilling with pin-point accuracy. Designed to hold pieces up to 100mm wide, it has a sliding mechanism and adjusts in both directions to ensure parallelism with an integral stop for production work. The jaw faces can be replaced with wooden faces to ensure the jaws don’t mar your piece.

Shoulder Vice

The shoulder vice provides flexibility for clamping out of square and tapered pieces. The threaded section and adjustment knuckle are morticed into the vice shoulder while the pivoting jaw mount is located on the ball-end.

Tail Vice

The tail vice and mount kit reduce sagging over time with the weight of the material. Many tail vices are sold without a mount kit but the extra mounting brackets are good for reducing the sagging. A tail vice is ideal for holding narrow boards horizontally and clamping wide or long pieces with an open end holding it in place while working on it. The vice screw is made from bright steel bar with a deep-cut thread for positive clamping pressure. It has a maximum travel of 330mm.