Woodworking Tools to Get Started

So you’ve decided to start a woodworking project, you will need some tools. With thousands of tools to choose from how do you know which ones you need now and which ones can wait? We’ve put together a list of what we consider to be essential tools to get some basic woodworking projects under your belt. With time you will be able to add to your tool collection and tackle more difficult projects, but this list will give you the basics every workshop needs.

If you are on a tight budget, be wary of buying more cheap tools rather than fewer quality tools. There is a good chance you will need to replace the cheap ones with a better quality product within a few years.

Workbench

Without a sturdy surface you can’t start any projects. You will need something to secure your wood to before planing or sawing. You can put in a fixed workbench or buy a mobile bench if you need the flexibility of moving it around your workshop. Just make sure your workbench will be big and sturdy enough to handle a vice.

Chisels

You will need a set of bevel edge bench chisels to get you started. A few different size blades will ensure you have the right chisel for every paring and chopping job. The multipurpose bench chisel is so named because they are used often enough that they are rarely put away. A mortise chisel is needed for heavy chopping of mortises. A paring chisel is thin and more delicate for slicing wood. Choose between wood or plastic handled chisels.

Later, when you have a project that calls for it, you can add some specialty chisels like paring and fishtail chisels.

Saws

A back saw is needed for accurate, fine wooden joints. A fine, rip teeth saw will allow you to cut along the grain. A tenon saw will be needed for heavier cuts along the grain. Fine crosscut teeth on a carcass saw can cut across the grain. A large mitre saw and mitre box will be needed if you need to cut your wood to accurate lengths and square for building boxes. A coping saw is required for removing waste if you are doing any dovetail joints.

Clamps

There aren't any general purpose clamps available for all projects. Several deep-throat bar clamps are fairly versatile because they have a long-arm stretch and deep reach. Spring clamps will act as a third hand when you need to hold the wood for painting and glueing.

Planes

If you are going to do traditional woodworking, then a plane is essential. There are multiple types you can invest in, but the two most common ones needed for the job are a block plane and jack plane. A block plane is smaller and can be used with one hand while the general purpose ‘jack of all trades’ plane can do some of the work of smoothing and jointer planes.

Squares & Tape Measure

Measure twice and cut once. Make sure you have a few tools including a good pencil for measuring and marking before cutting your wood. A combination square will help with measuring angles, determining flatness and marking.

Woodworking tools for your workspace

Choosing the right set of tools for a woodworking project can be a bit daunting. There's so much to choose from and if you're not careful, you may land up working with something that doesn't do the job. Since you're starting out, we recommend you have a quick chat with an expert who can help you decide which tools you'd need for your new woodwork project. 

Sharpening your Woodworking Tools - Chisels

If you look after your woodworking tools, they will most probably last longer than you. Part of taking care of your tools is keeping them sharp, so they are safe and enjoyable to use. A sharp tool will also give you the best result and will be ready to use whenever the next job calls for it.

Chisels require more sharpening and maintenance than most other woodworking tools to keep them in good order. Like most things, there is more than one way to sharpen a chisel. Some people prefer to use a jig while others prefer to do the job by hand with an oilstone, water stone or diamond stone. It’s personal preference which method you use, but a waterstone is a popular choice.

Waterstones are slightly softer than oilstones so you are left with clean sharp grit as the stone is worn away. Waterstones are available in a variety of sizes from 300 grit to 8000 grit. Reversible waterstones are also available to save you buying multiple stones of different grit. The 1000 grit side can be used for preparing and dressing the tool while the reversible 6000 grit is for sharpening.

To use your waterstone for sharpening your chisels:

1. Place your stone in water for around 5-10 minutes, so it’s soaking wet. For stones in excess of 4000 grit, you won’t need to soak them, just drop water on top. Place the stone somewhere that it won’t slip such as a waterstone holder but if you don’t have one, a piece of fine grit sandpaper secured to your workbench can do the job.

2. Next place your chisel into the honing guide with the bevel facing down and tighten the guide when the bevel is sitting flat on the bench. You want the entire bevel to touch the stone so it needs to sit flat in the guide. Place the honing guide’s wheel on the edge of the stone and place your fingers on the blade and thumbs behind.

3. Apply even pressure and give it several passes by going forward and back. Try to use as much of the stone as possible and also flip occasionally, so you don’t end up with a groove down the middle of your stone. Keep the stone wet by applying water.

4. Wipe the blade clean with a rag and check where it has been making contact with the stone. Wipe the residue off the stone. If needed change the chisel position and continue with the passes.

5. Move up through the finer grits of stone until you are happy with the edge you’ve created.

6. Your chisel will now be shiny and sharp. Some woodworkers stop here while others prefer to add a microbevel.

A microbevel is a very small bevel right on the edge of your already bevelled chisel. This is a future time saver as it allows you to sharpen just the microbevel if you are in the middle of a job and your chisel isn’t as sharp as you would like.

7. Adjust the honing guide so that you can slide the chisel back a tiny distance. Wet your stone, place your chisel down and pull the chisel back with steady strokes. Repeat a few times making sure the handle is at the same angle. Check to see you have a thin line on the end of the chisel blade.

8. Check the back of your chisel for any burrs. To remove a burr, place the chisel completely flat against the stone and do several passes.