Maintenance of your Woodworking Tools

Woodworking tools are designed to last many years as long as you look after them. With some regular maintenance, you can extend the life of your tools and keep you safe. Learn a few tips for maintaining your tools.

What to Include on Your Regular Maintenance Checklist

Depending on the type of tools you own and how often you use them will dictate your maintenance schedule. The following is a list of jobs that should be completed on a regular basis to keep your tools in good working order.

Check Tool Alignment is Accurate

A machine that is out of alignment needs to work harder and doesn’t produce ideal results. Invest in some good quality tools to check and realign your tools so that you aren’t at risk of kickbacks. An incra square and multi-gauge will cover most of your aligning tasks. Keep your alignment equipment out of your toolbox jumble to ensure they stay in a good, accurate condition.

Remove Sawdust from Machines

The longer sawdust is left sitting on machines, the greater the chance it will find its way inside motors and switches. Use a brush or vacuum to remove the sawdust rather than an air compressor which can drive sawdust deeper into machines.

Lubricating Parts on Working Machines

Due to the dusty environment, woodworking tools and machines need cleaning and lubricating. But using the wrong lubricant can be even more damaging than not using one at all. White grease can attract and hold dust while lubricants that contain silicone can move from surface to surface and eventually end up on your project making it difficult for the finish to adhere to the wood. Look for a dry lubricant with no silicone such as Camellia Oil and apply after thoroughly cleaning the surface.

Removing Rust Spots

Cast iron is used on saw tables and parts of woodworking machines because of its durable, heavy properties but it is prone to rust. Use WD-40 or a non-silicone lubricant and some steel wool to rub away the rust spot. Clean the surface thoroughly after the rust has been removed. You may be left with a mark where the rust was because part of the metal has been lost. SilverGlide Rust Inhibitor can be used to protect your cast iron tops.

Clean Blades and Cutters

If you skimp on cleaning your blades or cutters, they can become contaminated with resins and wood components. A dull, dirty blade or cutter doesn’t cut as efficiently or neatly and increases the chance of injuring the operator. By removing contaminants you won’t need to sharpen or replace your blade as often. Use a cleaning agent that won’t scratch or dull the surface then use a soft brush or rag to remove the contaminants before rinsing and drying thoroughly.

Sharpen the Edge of Tools

You can save yourself some frustration and valuable work time by sharpening your edge tools all at once. There is nothing more annoying than picking up a tool in the middle of your project to find you need to stop and sharpen it. Some of the tools that need sharpening include your chisels, planes, knives, carving tools, turning tools and scissors. Choose whether you prefer to use a flat stone or a powered sharpening system to keep your tools razor sharp and ready to use. Remember to match the existing angle of the bevel before refining and honing the edge.

Clean the Router’s Collet Parts

Collets can hold a build-up of contaminants which can harden to a shiny residue. The collet can then struggle to hold the bit properly. Use WD-40 and a brush to clean the collet and the receptacle machined into the spindle on a regular basis.



Once you have completed your maintenance schedule a few times, your tools won’t need as much attention, and you won’t need to spend as much time.

Setting up your Woodworking Router

Buying yourself a new woodworking router is pretty exciting. A router opens up the possibility of completing a raft of new projects. You will want to get in there straight away and start making some grooves but it’s important you get to know your new tool before you unleash it on your project. It can take time to learn how to do the set-up correctly particularly if you haven’t used a router much before.

Types of Routers

There are two main kinds of routers – handheld where you take your router to your project and a table-mounted router where you take your project to the tool. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. For many woodworkers just starting out, they choose the hand held option and may move to a mounted option later.

Set-up of your Router

To get started, you will need to insert the bit. Rather than dropping the bit into the collet and tightening, find the bottom of the recess and then move it a centimetre or two from the bottom before tightening. If the bit is touching the bottom you may jam the shank against the end of the recess. You shouldn’t need too much pressure to tighten the collet. If you use two wrenches for the job squeeze together with one hand. To loosen reverse the wrench action.

Securing your Project

Now that the bit is secure, you want to make sure your project isn’t going to move around on your bench. If not secured properly you risk injuring yourself and damaging your work. Depending on your piece, use a vice, bench dogs, I beam risers and clamps to safely attach it to the bench. Risers make it easier on your back and the bit is unobstructed by the bench.

Guiding the Router

A router is usually guided by a bit’s pilot bearing, a fence, a template-guided bushing or edge guide. Which guide you use will depend on whether you are using a template and the location of the cut.

A pilot’s bearing is a shielded ball bearing that sits under or over the cutter, suitable for straight or curved work surfaces. The project can ride against the bearing or a template that is attached to the project. When using a bearing guided bit, be careful to not let the router tip by using firm downward pressure and keeping one handle over your work.

A fence can be offset blocks or a self-clamping straight edge which the base of the router can run along. Move the router left to right when facing the bearing edge of the fence.

Template guides or guide bushings are collars attached to the sub-base of a router. The bit is longer than the bushing and rides along the edge of a template. The size of the bushing will depend on the diameter of the bit.

An edge guide attaches to the bottom of the router through one or two extension rods. A fence attaches to the edge guide and can be adjusted to any location on the rods. The fence then rides along the edge of the project to cut dadoes, grooves and mortises.

Remember to always use sharp, good quality bits in your router. Most routers use interchangeable collets so you can use either ¼ or ½ inch diameter bits in your router. When you have a choice of bit sizes, use the larger one so the collet has more to grip and chatter is minimised.

Practice Makes Perfect

As eager as you may be to get started on your project, it’s a good idea to practice with your router first. Try using as many different guides and bits as you own on different scrap materials to see how the router behaves. Draw lines on your material to ensure the accuracy of your cuts is spot on and before long you will be ready to get started on your projects.