7 Essential Tools for Picture Framing

Framing your pictures is not only rewarding, but it can save you a small fortune.

Once you have filled the walls in your home with picture frames, you can make them as gifts or start up a framing business as your side hustle. While you will need a few tools to do the job, they aren’t expensive compared to others you may have bought in the past.

Check out our list of tools you will need to get started to make your picture frames.

#1 Cutting the Glass to Size

If you want to make the entire frame yourself rather than outsource the glass preparation to a glazier, you are going to need a glass cutter. No other tool can be safely substituted when you’re cutting glass. The standard thickness of glass for picture framing is 2mm so that it fits into most moulding rebates. The FrameCo glass cutter produces a fine, even cut due to the tungsten-carbide head mounted on to a solid aluminium base. Before you get started, do a little research on tips and techniques for safe glass cutting.

#2 Mastering the Mitre

For professional finishes on your frame, you will need to master the mitre saw. Suitable for a range of different frame materials and thicknesses, your mitre saw will quickly become your best friend. With the popular stops of 15, 22.5, 30, 36 45 and 90 degrees built-in, it makes for a quick and accurate job every time. Otherwise, you can use a carpenters square to make your mitre cuts, just make sure you measure twice and cut once.

#3 Cutting the Mat Board for your Frame

Just as the mitred edges of your frame are important for achieving a professional finish, so is the mat board. For a bevel edge and cutting lines that are crisp and clean, a mat board cutter is essential. If you want to centre your artwork on the mat board, subtract the artwork width from the mat board width then divide in half. This will give you the measurement you need on each side. Draw the cut lines on the back of your board, and then you are ready to start cutting.

#4 Glueing the Mitre Joins

You might already have a couple of bottles of wood glue kicking around your workshop. Before you use it on your frame, just check its thickness. You don’t want a thin glue that is going to run out of the join or drip on the front of your frame. Choose a thick glue that will stay where you apply it.

#5 Clamping it all in Place

Once you have your four frame pieces cut and ready for joining you will need some clamps to hold your frame together tight while the glue dries. A band clamp is suitable for securing anything with three or four corners. The band is held in place with four heavy-duty cast alloy corners that offer impressive clamping pressure.

Plastic corners on a strap clamp ensure it stays in place around the frame. For rounded or narrow backed moulding, wings on the bottom of each corner help keep it in place.

#6 Securing the Joints of your Frame

When it comes to finishing off the mitred joints of your frame, V-Nails are your friend. They work by pulling the joint together tightly as the V shape of the nails open out slightly. V-Nails come in a few sizes; from 7mm to 15mm. The length you need will depend on the height of your frame. Choose a pin that is about 50-60% of the frame height. The PushMaster joining tool will help you insert the V-Nails.

For large or heavy frames, a V-Nail won’t do so use a FrameCo Backing Nail. If you intend to change the artwork in your frame in the future, Flexipoints will make the job of removing the nails easier.

#7 Secure the Frame with a Corner Jack

The pressure of a V-Nail being driven into the moulding base can cause the joint to open if it’s not properly supported. The Corner Jack can be adjusted to work on small even reverse shaped profiles.

If you don’t want to buy these tools individually, there is a Basic Picture Framing Kit that can get you up and running quickly. As you framing list grows, you can gradually upgrade your tools.

If you have any queries about the right product for your next framing project, don’t hesitate to contact us.

Your Guide to 6 Types of Woodworking Joints

Joining two pieces of wood together is an essential skill for woodworkers.

But it can be more complicated than it sounds. First, you need to decide which type of joint you will for each project and second which tools you will use to complete the job.

Butt Joint

It’s the simplest of all joints; two pieces of wood butted against each other and glued or reinforced. You can cut the wood to size by using a tenon saw, or a drop saw. Use clamps to secure the joint while the glue dries or hammer in nails to reinforce the joint. Simply glueing an end grain to a long grain surface is the weakest type of joint. You can strengthen the joint by adding a triangle or square of wood on the inside of the joint.

Lap Joint

Another simple joint but stronger than a butt joint, a lap joint is when one piece of wood sits over another at an angle. A full lap joint uses the original height of both pieces of wood while the more popular half-lap joints use half the thickness of each piece. The final joint is the same height of the thickest piece.

The joint can meet at a corner or crossover. It’s an ideal method to use when the wood stock is thick. The notches provide a large surface area for the glue to firmly hold the two pieces together.

Numerous tools can be used to create a lap joint from a table saw dado stop pro kit or, if you prefer hand tools, a saw and chisel will do the job.

Mortise & Tenon Joint

A strong structural joint, the mortise and tenon joint is suitable for joining the end of a board with another using a tab and slot method. This classic joining method is used when the two pieces of wood meet at a 90 degree or slightly less angle. Many woodworkers believe it is one of the best looking joints. To make the tenon, a band saw, or tenoning jig on a table saw can be used. For the mortise, a drill bit inside a four-sided chisel can be used or a hand chisel for the traditionalist.

Biscuit Joint

A biscuit joint is a reinforced butt joint. A common point on two pieces of wood is found then cut a 4mm slot cut halfway in the width of the timber. A biscuit shaped piece of wood is used to secure the two pieces of timber. Engineered wood and plywood are ideal woods for this joint.

A slot cutter router bit makes it quick and easy to cut grooves, shallow rebates and trenches. If you need a deeper cut, you can stack multiple slot cutters on top of each other.

Dowel Joint

One of the simplest joints, a dowel joint is similar to a biscuit joint. Holes are made in both portions of wood stock, and a dowel inserted and glued to hold the two pieces together. A woodworker can choose to make the dowel pins or buy them ready cut to the length and diameter required.

Dovetail Joint

Considered one of the most revered types of joints due to its beauty and strength, dovetail joints are one of the most difficult to make. Specially designed dovetail saws make the job of cutting the tails easy, and a bevel-edged chisel used to remove the waste. If you prefer the machine method, you can use a router with a dovetail jig.

If you have any joinery questions or want to know the best tools to use for the job, don’t hesitate to contact us.