Busting the Dust Problem in your Workshop

Wood dust and shavings are the bane of most workshops. In years gone by, woodworkers only had a broom and dustpan to tidy up the workshop floor. Nowadays we have sophisticated dust collectors suitable for hobby workshops right through to commercial factories.

The Problem with Dust

Sawdust was once just a messy nuisance but with improved medical knowledge we now know that dust is harmful to our health. Working in any kind of dusty environment can lead to significant health problems and sawdust is no exception.

The tiny wood dust particles in the air that are breathed in over long periods of time are considered to be potential carcinogens. Dust from MDF and imported wood can also cause allergic reactions in some woodworkers. With a good dust extraction system, you can now use power or hand tools all day and be able to breath clean air and not need to ever pick up a broom; something our forefathers could have only dreamed about.

Collecting the Dust

There are many products on the market that you can use to keep the air and workshop floor sparkling clean.

Wet/Dry Vacuum Cleaner

A good addition to a workshop is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner. Having a vacuum cleaner that can clean up spills as well as dry dirt can come in handy. The SWARTS Tools Wet & Dry Vacuum is ideal because it has a HEPA filter.

The filter forces air through a fine mesh trapping 99.97% of tiny particles. There is a cover over the air intake to ensure water doesn’t get sucked into the HEPA filter. A drainage plug at the bottom of the barrel makes for easy emptying of the water.

Air Filter

An air filter room cleaner will remove small particles from your workshop air. For the most efficient results, fit your filter to the workshop ceiling where most of the ambient dust is. A remote control and timer means you can turn the unit on and leave it on for two hours after you have finished in the workshop. This ensures that less dust settles on workshop surfaces after you have finished for the day.

If you are working in a dusty environment, take some measures to keep the dust out of your lungs, eyes and ears.

The most efficient way of keeping your workshop air clean is to collect the dust at the source not once it’s floating in the air and all over your floor.

Dust Extractor

A dust extractor will remove dust from machines such as a table saw, band saw, lathes and sanders. You can choose a dust extractor that suits the size of your machine and how much you use it. Dust extractors are available in 1HP, 2HP, 3HP and industrial sizes.

Some new tools and machines have dust exhaust ports but you can still use a dust extractor with old tools by adding ports and improving hose fittings. If your sander has a dust bag or canister, remove it and attach a dust extractor for better quality dust collection. You can buy a range of dust collection fittings and connectors.


Clean up your workshop environment by investing in a dust extraction system. Not only will you save time by not pushing a broom around but your lungs will thank you for it.

What you Need to Consider When Buying a Woodworking Router

Chances are it won’t be long into your woodworking hobby that you will want a router. Whether you need to cut some circles, shape edges, hollow out grooves, a router will make life easier and make your project look more professional than trying to do it by hand.

There is no shortage of routers to choose from either. Unless you spend most of your day routing, you won’t need to buy every kind of router available. What you need is a versatile router and accessories that can do the tasks you require.

Features of a Router

Follow our guide to make sure you buy a router that is going to last the distance and deliver a great looking project every time.

Speed

Check that the router has sufficient fast and slow speeds. Both are important because with different materials and bits you need to be able to vary the speed at which the machine is working. You will want a slow speed for big bits or when you are working with a type of wood that can burn or tear-out. A router should also be able to maintain its speed during the cut and not drop its rpm too much.

Balance

You will want your router to be stable both during adjustments and cuts. Some routers can be top heavy and more prone to tip than others. It’s particularly noticeable when you are routing along edges and corners. Ease of handling is an important consideration; you want to be concentrating on the material not making sure the tool isn’t going to tip over when you are using a router.

Adjusting your Router

When it comes time to do a fixed depth routing job, you will want a router that adjusts up and down quickly. There is nothing more frustrating than spending twice as long making the adjustments than it takes to make the actual cut.

Hand-held or Table

If you are going to move between hand-held and table routing often, you will need to look at the type of router you buy. A plunge router typically takes longer to change compared to those with multi-base kits. With a kit you can attach the base permanently to the table and just swap the motor into the plunge base for projects that require a handheld router.

Accessories

Before you buy your router, consider what accessories are available for that model. To get the most out of your router, you will need the right accessories. Think about whether you will want to add dust collection, sub-bases with different size openings, an edge guide and possibly a case for carrying or storing. Some brands and models will fit a range of accessories while other brands are more limited.

Choosing your Cabinet Handle Finishes

Call them what you like - cabinet handles, knobs, locks, latches, ring pulls, drawer pulls - the humble handle comes in many varieties of material, colour and design.

Choosing the correct cabinet handle finish can make or break your project. The handle is vital to the open and closing function of the cabinet while the handle’s design can completely change the look.

Here we check out some of the options you have to choose from in cabinet handle finishes.

Chrome Plated

Chrome plated cabinet handles are standard for many furniture designers. Their shiny finish stands the test of time, without suffering from damage and discolouration.

Polished Brass

Polished brass is a classic material that is the preferred option of many artisans. There is an appeal that can’t be found with other materials, especially after it has aged a little and began to discolour gracefully.

Ivory

The ivory look is beautiful and ornate, ideal for cabinets that need an antique touch to finish off the look. Crazed porcelain has a similar finish to the old-fashioned ivory.

Antique Copper

Antique copper is a finish that is very distinctive, being the colour of pots and pans of yesteryear. It has a vibrant quality that is ideal for vintage pieces.

Antique Brass

Antique brass is the more classically appreciated version of a brass finish. It goes well with old world cabinet designs.

Matt Black

Matt black is a more recent invention. With the right design, matt black can look quite futuristic and minimalist. Many contemporary designed cabinets will use matt black handles as their finishing touch.

Polished Metal

Polished metal finishes are the most versatile and long-lasting. Their finish doesn’t age or change, unlike some other metals.

Polished Nickel

Polished nickel has a very clean, stylish look and is used in modern, contemporary cabinetry. Similar to chrome because of its silver look, polished nickel has a warmer tone.

Satin Chrome

Another contemporary look, satin chrome is a little more subdued and less shiny than chrome. Its understated look suits a range of designs.

Satin Nickel

One of the most versatile finishes, satin nickel has a metallic pearl finish that can complement everything from bright to neutral colours.

Installing your Cabinet Handles

Remember to use a cardboard template of your drawer front to ensure your drawer handles are straight and in line with the drawers above, below and to the side. Use a pencil to mark where you will drill then check all the dots line up. You don’t want to spend time deciding on the right drawer handle finish only to be distracted by the fact that they aren’t all aligned properly! Before drilling, clamp a piece of wood at the back of the drawer, so you don’t tear the drawer's material as you drill through.

Which of These Four Woodworking Mallets is Right for You?

There are plenty of woodworking mallets on the market but how do you know which is the right one for your project? You don’t want to be whacking your woodworking tools with any old hammer or you could find yourself replacing some of your favourite tools. Use the right mallet that does the job without damaging your tools or project.

Cabinetmakers Mallet

Wooden mallets are gentle on tools and wooden projects compared to steel hammers which can leave dents, break or mushroom the wooden handle of your chisels.

The two striking faces mean you can use one side for smooth, clean work and the other side for driving out bolts which may damage the face.

Wrist action rather than a swinging arm is usually needed, so the face is at a 90-degree angle. For fine carving work, users can hold the mallet further up the handle near the head. Choose one with a head that isn’t too big or too small for you to use comfortably.

Carpenters Mallet

Also known as the ‘general mallet’, the carpenters mallet has a short, shaped handle and large head for working with chisels and wedges. These mallets are also suitable for blunt force tasks such as banging together a carcase. Beechwood, hornbeam and ash woods are often used in the manufacture of mallets with the head and handle made from different materials.

Carvers Mallet

The rounded mallet gives solid contact even when hit from odd angles. Being smaller and more delicate than carpenters mallets, carvers mallets are ideal for using with carving chisels rather than heavier woodworking tasks.

Brass Head Carving Mallet

When cutting a mortise or carving wood, you want the full force of a strike to be forward. A wooden mallet striking a wooden handle results in a forward and backward motion as it bounces.

A brass head means there is no bounce and the full energy of the blow is used. A rounded head allows you to strike the mallet at any angle and the strike only needs to come from the wrist as a light, controlled tap rather than a swing of the arm like bigger mallets require. These mallets offer you the accuracy and control you need for more delicate woodworking projects.

Which Brand of Mallet?

Like most woodworking tools on the market, you get what you pay for. A good quality brand will give you many years of service if you look after your tools. Fortunately, there are three well-known, quality brands producing mallets for use with their woodworking tools.

The Veritas is a well-known Canadian brand. Veritas is the manufacturing arm of Lee Valley Tools Ltd which is a leading US retailer of woodworking tools. Veritas produces 250 products which are used by discerning woodworkers around the world.

For over 50 years Crown Tools has been manufacturing woodworking hand tools from its factory in Sheffield England. For the majority of their products, old and new techniques are used to hand forge, temper and grind tools.

Two Cherries is another brand that has been turning out quality tools for decades from its German factory. Its craftsmen are using time-honoured techniques to produce tools that can last more than a generation.

Cabinetmaking Chisels Explained

The chisel is a fundamental woodworking tool and is invaluable to any woodworker, regardless of the size and type of work. Whether you are making standard furniture or a grand work of art, a good quality chisel is one of the first tools you should buy.

If you are looking to delve into woodworking in particular cabinetmaking, having some knowledge of the variety of chisels used is quite important. The following is a list of the chisels that are typically used in cabinetmaking.

Bevel Edge Chisel

The bevel edge chisel is uniquely shaped, in that it has a tapering edge on both side-edges as well as the point. The taper is only biased on one side while the other is completely flat, for easy sharpening of the point.

A bevel edge chisel is used to chip away large amounts of wood, as well as create finer shapes such as dovetails.

Butt Chisel

A butt chisel is basically a cabinet making chisel that has a blade shorter than 10 cm. It gets its name from short blades used in fixing butt hinges. The handle of the butt chisel is often short and bulbous towards the end, with a flat surface for hammer striking.

Cranked Neck Chisel

A cranked neck chisel has a unique offset handle and a neck that is sloped downward. This allows the blade to run more flat on the wood surface, and work like a plane, removing glue and excess wood. It is very useful for difficult to reach places and can be used with a hammer more easily, as it can provide a more direct contact point between the blade and wood, with the blade point angled correctly.

Cabinet Corner Cleaning Chisel

This type of chisel has a blade that is angled around a third of the way towards the end. This angle lets the chisel work at a very high angle, which is good for evening out corners, as the name suggests. The blade is generally long and narrow, and the point is sometimes tapered as well.

Cabinet Mortise Chisel

A mortise chisel is quite tough, with a thicker blade and stronger handle, which can sustain heavy hits from a hammer. The common usage is to break mortise joints, which needs a stronger blade and tougher point. The mortise chisel can come in a number of sizes, but they are on the larger side.

Cabinet Paring Chisels

This chisel is used for removing much smaller and finer quantities of wood, for mostly decorative work. The chisel is very similar to a bevel edge chisel, with the only difference being the thinner blade and handle, and the different usage. Additionally, the blade of a cabinet paring chisel is slightly flexible, though this may not be the case with most cabinet paring chisels.

Skew Paring Chisels

A skewed paring chisel has a frontal point that is leaning on one side, which gives it a sharp point and a leaning edge. They are used to clean out the dovetail sockets, a task that requires a slight one-sided taper on the point.

Spring Loaded Corner Chisel

A spring loaded corner chisel uses a compact, cuboid design which is held on top of a corner, and the point is then hammered down to remove wood from the corner of the cabinet. The blade is hidden inside the frame and retracts back to the loaded position after the wood has been removed with a hammer strike.

What to Look for in a Router Table

A router table is one of the handiest inclusions in your workshop. If you want to do moulded edges, dadoes, mortises and multiple curves that match a template you will be wise to invest in a good quality router and table to match. The router table allows you to have both hands free from holding the tool and converts a portable power tool into a stationary power tool making it more versatile and usable.

Convenience

A router table means your router is always ready to use. There is less set-up time required and less mess because your dust extractor is attached and ready to go.

A router table needs to provide good support and guidance for your workpiece.

Attachments

There is a range of individual accessories and combinations that you can use on your router table. These include guards, fences, mitre gauges and dust extractors.

Choose a fence opening that can be easily adjusted and look at the surface of the table to make sure any material can pass over it safely.

A router table also allows you to use feather boards, a mitre gauge and hold-downs which wouldn’t be possible with a hand-held router.

Safety

A router is one of the most dangerous woodworking tools available. A router table can make your router safer to use than a hand-held router.

When the router is moving between 3,000 and 25,000 rpm, you don’t want to slip or make a mistake. Your hand or a finger can be seriously injured. It doesn’t matter how careful you are; accidents can happen. A moment’s lapse of concentration is all it takes. Spend the time to set up your table with the right guards and fences for the project you are currently working on. If you are unsure how to use the safety equipment, take the time to find out from the manufacturer or online.

Make sure you use a table that is compatible with your router. Obviously, a heavy duty router needs a heavy table to hold it properly. The more accessories you attach to your table the more weight it adds to the table. Before upgrading your router and accessories, check if you will need to replace your table to hold your upgrades. Read more about router table safety here.

More about Router Tables

If you're still not sure about what you want in a router table, it is recommended that you speak to an expert who can present you with more information on what to look for in a router table that would be beneficial to your business. 

Sharpening your Woodworking Tools – Hand Planes

The skill of sharpening your tools is as important as the skill of using your woodwork hand tools. A good sharpening session can turn your grandfather’s old plane into a sentimental but highly valued tool. A brand new, budget plane can perform as well as their higher priced cousin with the right sharpening.

Machine Marks

If you have bought a premium plane, you may not need to do much to it once you have taken it out of the box. Less expensive planes may need a little more attention. Inspect the blade carefully for any machining marks. If you find any marks, you will need to flatten and polish the back of the blade. Start with the coarsest grit and work your way up through the grits until the marks are removed, and you have a mirror finish. Only worry about the edge of the blade’s back as the rest of the blade won’t touch the wood so the machine marks can remain.

Bevel Edge

The primary bevel of your plane edge should be 25 degrees unless it’s needed for work on a difficult grain. If your bevel is not the right angle, the edge isn’t square or is damaged, you will need to re-grind it. A water-cooled, large grinder will make the job easy but with a little patience you can do the job with sandpaper. Once you are happy with the edge, you can start to polish it. Use various sandpapers to get a polished mirror finish. A honing guide will help you achieve the desired result.

If your blade is in poor condition with rust or bad nicks, it may be wise to replace the blade. You can spend hours trying to get a blade into a usable condition and find it is too severely damaged. Make the call early and decide if it can be salvaged or not. Several manufacturers still make blades to fit the width of old planes, just ask.

Micro Bevel

Once you are happy with your bevel edge, it is time to start work on the micro bevel. This secondary bevel should be around 2-5% higher than the primary one. No new planes come with a micro bevel so all blades need some work to achieve this. Start with coarse sandpaper to establish a thin, even line across the blade’s tip. Use your highest grit and then polishing stone for another mirror finish.

Once you have a perfectly sharp and honed plane blade, you will only need to work on the micro bevel with a fine stone regularly.

Camber or Left Straight

One decision woodworkers need to make about their new planes is whether to camber the edge or leave it straight. Newbie woodworkers can benefit from a cambered edge because it is more forgiving than a straight edge. If you don’t set the blade at an equal depth on both sides, it can dig in more on one side.

To camber use your stone to take slightly more metal the further from the middle. Count the number of strokes you use on the first side so you can repeat evenly on the other side. You should see a slight curvature on the cutting edge. Planes used on heavier timber can have a greater curvature.

If you want to reduce the time, it takes to camber your plane and, you want to preserve your stone, use a power or hand-cranked grinder.

Make it a habit to check the edge of your plane’s blade every time you begin a project. A perfectly sharpened and honed blade edge can make the job easier and the result more precise.

More information on Hand Planes

If you still need more information on tools for sharpening woodwork, it is best to speak to an expert who can guide you with information on the right type of hand planes for your business.