Woodworking Clamps are Better than a Second Set of Hands

A wood workshop isn’t complete without a set of clamps. As a second set of hands, they come in very handy. You can use them to hold pieces of wood together while the glue is drying, keeping parts together so you can mark up and secure your project while you work on it. One set of clamps is never enough. You can choose the most versatile clamps but there will no doubt be times when you need a different set.

C-Clamp

C-clamps have been around for years and are often used for metalwork projects. They are ideal for holding pieces for glueing and securing your project or jigs to the bench or fence. Most C-clamps range from 3 inch to 10 inch so if your clamping job is bigger than a 10-inch reach, try using pipe or bar clamps.

Pipe Clamp

Pipe clamps are flexible in that you can decide how long you need them to be. The tailpiece slides and locks along the pipe to change the width while the headpiece has a screw that drives the clamping face. The pipe clamp is ideal for edge gluing pieces of wood together and other assembly jobs.

Bar Clamp

Similar to pipe clamps, the bar clamp has a built-in screw to apply pressure. The moving head adjusts capacity and the bar has a serrated edge into which the moveable head locks when pressure is applied. The head is square to the bar so your project should come out right after gluing. The bar clamp can also be used for holding the project on the bench or a jig and holding parts together while making layout lines and for assembly. A good quality bar clamp has a heavy, rigid bar with a hefty clamping head that fit squarely and holds tight.

Parallel Clamp

If you have a project that needs to be pulled in square without the need to check then the parallel clamp may be the one. The jaws stay parallel and at 90 degrees so they are easy to handle. A parallel clamp can deliver a huge clamping force and are ideal for large projects.

Face Frame Clamp

A face frame clamp distributes the clamping force evenly, so there is no marring of the wood. It is a versatile clamp that can be used for pocket hole joinery, project construction and general clamping. Right angle face frame clamps are used for projects with a 90-degree joint while micro face frame clamps are used for projects that require flush Kreg joints.

Corner Clamp

If you need a square corner from gluing two pieces of wood together, then a corner or spring mitre clamp is your answer. Choose the appropriate size spring clamp then use the spreader to open and position the clamp. While not as versatile as some of the other clamps, these clamps ensure you achieve an accurate result for a job that could be quite tricky without them.

One Hand Clamp

The one hand or speed clamp is easy to use because it can be operated with just one hand. Simply squeeze the handle to close the jaws a little more. Good clamping pressure is achieved and with a protective pad, the clamp won’t mar your wood. The speed clamp may be used to keep a project in place while you attach a heavier clamp such as a pipe or bar clamp.

Maintenance of your Woodworking Tools

Woodworking tools are designed to last many years as long as you look after them. With some regular maintenance, you can extend the life of your tools and keep you safe. Learn a few tips for maintaining your tools.

What to Include on Your Regular Maintenance Checklist

Depending on the type of tools you own and how often you use them will dictate your maintenance schedule. The following is a list of jobs that should be completed on a regular basis to keep your tools in good working order.

Check Tool Alignment is Accurate

A machine that is out of alignment needs to work harder and doesn’t produce ideal results. Invest in some good quality tools to check and realign your tools so that you aren’t at risk of kickbacks. An incra square and multi-gauge will cover most of your aligning tasks. Keep your alignment equipment out of your toolbox jumble to ensure they stay in a good, accurate condition.

Remove Sawdust from Machines

The longer sawdust is left sitting on machines, the greater the chance it will find its way inside motors and switches. Use a brush or vacuum to remove the sawdust rather than an air compressor which can drive sawdust deeper into machines.

Lubricating Parts on Working Machines

Due to the dusty environment, woodworking tools and machines need cleaning and lubricating. But using the wrong lubricant can be even more damaging than not using one at all. White grease can attract and hold dust while lubricants that contain silicone can move from surface to surface and eventually end up on your project making it difficult for the finish to adhere to the wood. Look for a dry lubricant with no silicone such as Camellia Oil and apply after thoroughly cleaning the surface.

Removing Rust Spots

Cast iron is used on saw tables and parts of woodworking machines because of its durable, heavy properties but it is prone to rust. Use WD-40 or a non-silicone lubricant and some steel wool to rub away the rust spot. Clean the surface thoroughly after the rust has been removed. You may be left with a mark where the rust was because part of the metal has been lost. SilverGlide Rust Inhibitor can be used to protect your cast iron tops.

Clean Blades and Cutters

If you skimp on cleaning your blades or cutters, they can become contaminated with resins and wood components. A dull, dirty blade or cutter doesn’t cut as efficiently or neatly and increases the chance of injuring the operator. By removing contaminants you won’t need to sharpen or replace your blade as often. Use a cleaning agent that won’t scratch or dull the surface then use a soft brush or rag to remove the contaminants before rinsing and drying thoroughly.

Sharpen the Edge of Tools

You can save yourself some frustration and valuable work time by sharpening your edge tools all at once. There is nothing more annoying than picking up a tool in the middle of your project to find you need to stop and sharpen it. Some of the tools that need sharpening include your chisels, planes, knives, carving tools, turning tools and scissors. Choose whether you prefer to use a flat stone or a powered sharpening system to keep your tools razor sharp and ready to use. Remember to match the existing angle of the bevel before refining and honing the edge.

Clean the Router’s Collet Parts

Collets can hold a build-up of contaminants which can harden to a shiny residue. The collet can then struggle to hold the bit properly. Use WD-40 and a brush to clean the collet and the receptacle machined into the spindle on a regular basis.



Once you have completed your maintenance schedule a few times, your tools won’t need as much attention, and you won’t need to spend as much time.

Setting up your Woodworking Router

Buying yourself a new woodworking router is pretty exciting. A router opens up the possibility of completing a raft of new projects. You will want to get in there straight away and start making some grooves but it’s important you get to know your new tool before you unleash it on your project. It can take time to learn how to do the set-up correctly particularly if you haven’t used a router much before.

Types of Routers

There are two main kinds of routers – handheld where you take your router to your project and a table-mounted router where you take your project to the tool. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. For many woodworkers just starting out, they choose the hand held option and may move to a mounted option later.

Set-up of your Router

To get started, you will need to insert the bit. Rather than dropping the bit into the collet and tightening, find the bottom of the recess and then move it a centimetre or two from the bottom before tightening. If the bit is touching the bottom you may jam the shank against the end of the recess. You shouldn’t need too much pressure to tighten the collet. If you use two wrenches for the job squeeze together with one hand. To loosen reverse the wrench action.

Securing your Project

Now that the bit is secure, you want to make sure your project isn’t going to move around on your bench. If not secured properly you risk injuring yourself and damaging your work. Depending on your piece, use a vice, bench dogs, I beam risers and clamps to safely attach it to the bench. Risers make it easier on your back and the bit is unobstructed by the bench.

Guiding the Router

A router is usually guided by a bit’s pilot bearing, a fence, a template-guided bushing or edge guide. Which guide you use will depend on whether you are using a template and the location of the cut.

A pilot’s bearing is a shielded ball bearing that sits under or over the cutter, suitable for straight or curved work surfaces. The project can ride against the bearing or a template that is attached to the project. When using a bearing guided bit, be careful to not let the router tip by using firm downward pressure and keeping one handle over your work.

A fence can be offset blocks or a self-clamping straight edge which the base of the router can run along. Move the router left to right when facing the bearing edge of the fence.

Template guides or guide bushings are collars attached to the sub-base of a router. The bit is longer than the bushing and rides along the edge of a template. The size of the bushing will depend on the diameter of the bit.

An edge guide attaches to the bottom of the router through one or two extension rods. A fence attaches to the edge guide and can be adjusted to any location on the rods. The fence then rides along the edge of the project to cut dadoes, grooves and mortises.

Remember to always use sharp, good quality bits in your router. Most routers use interchangeable collets so you can use either ¼ or ½ inch diameter bits in your router. When you have a choice of bit sizes, use the larger one so the collet has more to grip and chatter is minimised.

Practice Makes Perfect

As eager as you may be to get started on your project, it’s a good idea to practice with your router first. Try using as many different guides and bits as you own on different scrap materials to see how the router behaves. Draw lines on your material to ensure the accuracy of your cuts is spot on and before long you will be ready to get started on your projects.

Busting the Dust Problem in your Workshop

Wood dust and shavings are the bane of most workshops. In years gone by, woodworkers only had a broom and dustpan to tidy up the workshop floor. Nowadays we have sophisticated dust collectors suitable for hobby workshops right through to commercial factories.

The Problem with Dust

Sawdust was once just a messy nuisance but with improved medical knowledge we now know that dust is harmful to our health. Working in any kind of dusty environment can lead to significant health problems and sawdust is no exception.

The tiny wood dust particles in the air that are breathed in over long periods of time are considered to be potential carcinogens. Dust from MDF and imported wood can also cause allergic reactions in some woodworkers. With a good dust extraction system, you can now use power or hand tools all day and be able to breath clean air and not need to ever pick up a broom; something our forefathers could have only dreamed about.

Collecting the Dust

There are many products on the market that you can use to keep the air and workshop floor sparkling clean.

Wet/Dry Vacuum Cleaner

A good addition to a workshop is a wet/dry vacuum cleaner. Having a vacuum cleaner that can clean up spills as well as dry dirt can come in handy. The SWARTS Tools Wet & Dry Vacuum is ideal because it has a HEPA filter.

The filter forces air through a fine mesh trapping 99.97% of tiny particles. There is a cover over the air intake to ensure water doesn’t get sucked into the HEPA filter. A drainage plug at the bottom of the barrel makes for easy emptying of the water.

Air Filter

An air filter room cleaner will remove small particles from your workshop air. For the most efficient results, fit your filter to the workshop ceiling where most of the ambient dust is. A remote control and timer means you can turn the unit on and leave it on for two hours after you have finished in the workshop. This ensures that less dust settles on workshop surfaces after you have finished for the day.

If you are working in a dusty environment, take some measures to keep the dust out of your lungs, eyes and ears.

The most efficient way of keeping your workshop air clean is to collect the dust at the source not once it’s floating in the air and all over your floor.

Dust Extractor

A dust extractor will remove dust from machines such as a table saw, band saw, lathes and sanders. You can choose a dust extractor that suits the size of your machine and how much you use it. Dust extractors are available in 1HP, 2HP, 3HP and industrial sizes.

Some new tools and machines have dust exhaust ports but you can still use a dust extractor with old tools by adding ports and improving hose fittings. If your sander has a dust bag or canister, remove it and attach a dust extractor for better quality dust collection. You can buy a range of dust collection fittings and connectors.


Clean up your workshop environment by investing in a dust extraction system. Not only will you save time by not pushing a broom around but your lungs will thank you for it.

What you Need to Consider When Buying a Woodworking Router

Chances are it won’t be long into your woodworking hobby that you will want a router. Whether you need to cut some circles, shape edges, hollow out grooves, a router will make life easier and make your project look more professional than trying to do it by hand.

There is no shortage of routers to choose from either. Unless you spend most of your day routing, you won’t need to buy every kind of router available. What you need is a versatile router and accessories that can do the tasks you require.

Features of a Router

Follow our guide to make sure you buy a router that is going to last the distance and deliver a great looking project every time.

Speed

Check that the router has sufficient fast and slow speeds. Both are important because with different materials and bits you need to be able to vary the speed at which the machine is working. You will want a slow speed for big bits or when you are working with a type of wood that can burn or tear-out. A router should also be able to maintain its speed during the cut and not drop its rpm too much.

Balance

You will want your router to be stable both during adjustments and cuts. Some routers can be top heavy and more prone to tip than others. It’s particularly noticeable when you are routing along edges and corners. Ease of handling is an important consideration; you want to be concentrating on the material not making sure the tool isn’t going to tip over when you are using a router.

Adjusting your Router

When it comes time to do a fixed depth routing job, you will want a router that adjusts up and down quickly. There is nothing more frustrating than spending twice as long making the adjustments than it takes to make the actual cut.

Hand-held or Table

If you are going to move between hand-held and table routing often, you will need to look at the type of router you buy. A plunge router typically takes longer to change compared to those with multi-base kits. With a kit you can attach the base permanently to the table and just swap the motor into the plunge base for projects that require a handheld router.

Accessories

Before you buy your router, consider what accessories are available for that model. To get the most out of your router, you will need the right accessories. Think about whether you will want to add dust collection, sub-bases with different size openings, an edge guide and possibly a case for carrying or storing. Some brands and models will fit a range of accessories while other brands are more limited.

Choosing your Cabinet Handle Finishes

Call them what you like - cabinet handles, knobs, locks, latches, ring pulls, drawer pulls - the humble handle comes in many varieties of material, colour and design.

Choosing the correct cabinet handle finish can make or break your project. The handle is vital to the open and closing function of the cabinet while the handle’s design can completely change the look.

Here we check out some of the options you have to choose from in cabinet handle finishes.

Chrome Plated

Chrome plated cabinet handles are standard for many furniture designers. Their shiny finish stands the test of time, without suffering from damage and discolouration.

Polished Brass

Polished brass is a classic material that is the preferred option of many artisans. There is an appeal that can’t be found with other materials, especially after it has aged a little and began to discolour gracefully.

Ivory

The ivory look is beautiful and ornate, ideal for cabinets that need an antique touch to finish off the look. Crazed porcelain has a similar finish to the old-fashioned ivory.

Antique Copper

Antique copper is a finish that is very distinctive, being the colour of pots and pans of yesteryear. It has a vibrant quality that is ideal for vintage pieces.

Antique Brass

Antique brass is the more classically appreciated version of a brass finish. It goes well with old world cabinet designs.

Matt Black

Matt black is a more recent invention. With the right design, matt black can look quite futuristic and minimalist. Many contemporary designed cabinets will use matt black handles as their finishing touch.

Polished Metal

Polished metal finishes are the most versatile and long-lasting. Their finish doesn’t age or change, unlike some other metals.

Polished Nickel

Polished nickel has a very clean, stylish look and is used in modern, contemporary cabinetry. Similar to chrome because of its silver look, polished nickel has a warmer tone.

Satin Chrome

Another contemporary look, satin chrome is a little more subdued and less shiny than chrome. Its understated look suits a range of designs.

Satin Nickel

One of the most versatile finishes, satin nickel has a metallic pearl finish that can complement everything from bright to neutral colours.

Installing your Cabinet Handles

Remember to use a cardboard template of your drawer front to ensure your drawer handles are straight and in line with the drawers above, below and to the side. Use a pencil to mark where you will drill then check all the dots line up. You don’t want to spend time deciding on the right drawer handle finish only to be distracted by the fact that they aren’t all aligned properly! Before drilling, clamp a piece of wood at the back of the drawer, so you don’t tear the drawer's material as you drill through.

Which of These Four Woodworking Mallets is Right for You?

There are plenty of woodworking mallets on the market but how do you know which is the right one for your project? You don’t want to be whacking your woodworking tools with any old hammer or you could find yourself replacing some of your favourite tools. Use the right mallet that does the job without damaging your tools or project.

Cabinetmakers Mallet

Wooden mallets are gentle on tools and wooden projects compared to steel hammers which can leave dents, break or mushroom the wooden handle of your chisels.

The two striking faces mean you can use one side for smooth, clean work and the other side for driving out bolts which may damage the face.

Wrist action rather than a swinging arm is usually needed, so the face is at a 90-degree angle. For fine carving work, users can hold the mallet further up the handle near the head. Choose one with a head that isn’t too big or too small for you to use comfortably.

Carpenters Mallet

Also known as the ‘general mallet’, the carpenters mallet has a short, shaped handle and large head for working with chisels and wedges. These mallets are also suitable for blunt force tasks such as banging together a carcase. Beechwood, hornbeam and ash woods are often used in the manufacture of mallets with the head and handle made from different materials.

Carvers Mallet

The rounded mallet gives solid contact even when hit from odd angles. Being smaller and more delicate than carpenters mallets, carvers mallets are ideal for using with carving chisels rather than heavier woodworking tasks.

Brass Head Carving Mallet

When cutting a mortise or carving wood, you want the full force of a strike to be forward. A wooden mallet striking a wooden handle results in a forward and backward motion as it bounces.

A brass head means there is no bounce and the full energy of the blow is used. A rounded head allows you to strike the mallet at any angle and the strike only needs to come from the wrist as a light, controlled tap rather than a swing of the arm like bigger mallets require. These mallets offer you the accuracy and control you need for more delicate woodworking projects.

Which Brand of Mallet?

Like most woodworking tools on the market, you get what you pay for. A good quality brand will give you many years of service if you look after your tools. Fortunately, there are three well-known, quality brands producing mallets for use with their woodworking tools.

The Veritas is a well-known Canadian brand. Veritas is the manufacturing arm of Lee Valley Tools Ltd which is a leading US retailer of woodworking tools. Veritas produces 250 products which are used by discerning woodworkers around the world.

For over 50 years Crown Tools has been manufacturing woodworking hand tools from its factory in Sheffield England. For the majority of their products, old and new techniques are used to hand forge, temper and grind tools.

Two Cherries is another brand that has been turning out quality tools for decades from its German factory. Its craftsmen are using time-honoured techniques to produce tools that can last more than a generation.