Guide to Buying a Woodworking Table Saw

Despite the number of different table saws on the market, all have the same parts – a blade attached to a shaft of a motor. The blade is raised and lowered as needed and protrudes through a slot in the table. The option for tilting the blade side to side is available for bevel cuts. The main differences in table saws are their size and quality. Make the right decision on a table saw, and it will be a valued piece in your workshop for many years.

Types of Table Saws

There are four main types of table saws available – bench-top, contractor’s, worksite, and cabinet saws.

Bench-Top Saws

If space is a premium in the workshop, woodworkers will often choose a bench-top saw. They usually have a smaller motor than the saws below but still manage to do the job for hobbyist woodworkers wanting to complete light to medium jobs rather than heavy jobs like ripping through thick stock. A collapsible stand on some bench-top saws mean they are lighter and able to be carried around to worksites.

Contractors Saws

The next step up from a bench-top saw is a contractor’s saw ideal for hobbyist or career carpenters. These saws are hardworking and easily portable so that they can be moved around the workshop or go from site to site. The contactors saw has its motor mounted at the rear so the carpenter can remove the legs and place the top on a pair of sawhorses.

Most saw cases on a contractor’s saw are made of sheet metal, not plastic and the table is heavy cast iron with extensions wings on the sides. The guide rails for accepting the rip fence are usually steel tubes.

A contractors saw with an accurate fence can have the same superior performance of a cabinet saw with a less expensive price tag.

Worksite Saws

The job or worksite saw is designed for practical day to day portability. Large wheels on a collapsible cart make the unit easy to move in and out. Storage in the unit allows for all accessories to be stored onboard so nothing is lost or forgotten. The unit is light enough that it can be lifted into a vehicle but robust enough to cope with professional sawing jobs.

Cabinet Saws

Also known as a stationary saw or a tilting-arbor saw, cabinet saws have a closed-in base, heavy duty casting and a large motor. If you do a lot of woodworking the extra expense of a cabinet saw can be justified because it can slice through the thickest wood stock with vibration-free cuts. These saws are often slightly more accurate than a contractors saw or bench-top saw and with proper maintenance, they will last a lifetime.

The main difference with a cabinet saw is the closed-in base which isn’t available with other saw types. This space makes dust collection a cinch. You can choose to hook up a vacuum, a portable dust collector or a whole-shop dust collector. Considering the harmful effect impact dust can have on a woodworker, this feature alone is vital to serious woodworkers.

Blade Size

In the past bench-top saws had an 8-inch blade while all other types of saws took a 10-inch blade but today most table saws use a 10-inch blade. While the blade size is more uniform now, the motor size is the differentiating factor between saw types. The bench-top saw has a much smaller motor than other saw types which limits the size of the wood stock it can handle.

Motor Size

Now that the blade size is fairly universal, the motor’s size impacts on the size of the cut a table saw can make. A small motor can struggle to cut through hardwoods, wet or thick wood stock by stalling or getting bogged down. A bench-top or contractor’s saw may have a 1.3 kW (1.75HP) motor while an industrial cabinet motor can be 3.7 kW (5.0HP) requiring three phase power.

Woodturning Tools – the Core Set you will Use

If you have been bitten by the woodturning bug, you will know the world of crafting opportunities available to you once you have a lathe and a set of turning tools. Before you know it, you will be turning out beautiful platters, bowls, spindles and table legs.

But good quality turning chisels aren’t cheap tools. If you are just starting out and you’re on a budget here is a list of the core chisels you will use.

Chisels are classified and named by the basic operation they perform.

Parting Tool

A diamond-shaped tool used for notching and grooving a project. The cutting tool is also used for removing or parting off the project when it’s finished.

Roughing Gouge

With a deep U shaped gouge that has a 45 degree outside bevel, its ideal for rapidly removing waste such as turning a square block into a round piece.

Domed Scraper

Use the curved profile and flat end to finish off the insides of bowls and goblets.

Skew Chisel

The angled V-section blade is for smoothing and shaping. It’s a versatile tool that will be well used in your kit.

Spindle Gouge

With a shallower bevel than a roughing gouge, the rounded end of the spindle gouge is used to turn beads and other profiles.

Square-end Chisel

This chisel is for finishing off with an extremely smooth surface on cylindrical and conical surfaces.

Individual Chisels or Kits

It’s up to you whether you want to buy your chisels separately or as a kit. When you are starting out a kit makes it easy particularly if you aren’t sure of the most useful sizes of each woodturning tool. You don’t want to buy your tools and then find out they are a miniature size or too big for what you need.

You can buy toolkits with one of each of the most versatile tools. But if you know that you will be spending most of your time on one particular type of woodturning, you may want to invest in a set of the same tools in different sizes.

6 Essential Router Bits for your Woodworking Projects

So you’ve bought yourself a router, now all you need are the bits to take your projects to a professional looking level. But it’s hard to know where to start. The range can be a little bit bewildering really to a newbie woodworker. Below is a list of some of the basic bits that will allow you to cut joinery, shape profiles and router patterns.

Straight Bits

Nothing is boring about a straight bit. Use it to cut grooves and dadoes, mortises, tenons and rabbets as well as clean up edges. Straight bits can have straight or spiral flutes.

Dovetail Bit

For woodworkers making drawers or carcases, a dovetail bit can help with construction. Most dovetail bits have angles from 7 to 14 degrees depending on the hardness of the wood. Dovetail bits are designed to cut full depth. A straight bit may be used to clean out most of the waste when cutting a sliding dovetail slot to extend the life of a dovetail bit and gain a cleaner cut.

Roundover Bit

A roundover bit can soften the look of a piece of wood by taking off the sharp corners. Depending on the size of the bit, some bits will cut roundovers with or without a step also known as a fillet.

To reduce the chance of tearout, take light passes and gradually raise the bit until you are cutting at full depth. The end grain can blowout because the fibres of the wood are unsupported. To stop this happening, round over the end grain edges before routing the long grain.

Cove Bit

The cove bit is designed to make a decorative concave edge such as a hidden pull on a drawer. You can choose to use a cove in conjunction with another bit to router a more complex profile. The roundover and cove bits can be used to create a decorative table edge when both bits are the same radius.

Chamfer Bit

A chamfer bit is used for beveling the edge of wood. It can be used to make a top look thinner by chamfering the bottom edge and a thin top can be made to look thicker by chamfering the top. Chamfers are commonly used on legs, tabletops and aprons.

Rabbeting Bit

A bearing guided rabbeting bit allows you to cut rabbets of various sizes. Frames that have already been glued together can have perfectly aligned rabbets cut. The rabbet on the inside edge is cut by moving the router clockwise while the profile on the outside edge is cut moving the router counterclockwise.

Caring for Router Bits

It’s important not to leave bits loose in a drawer or toolbox. If the bits bump each other, their cutting edges can be chipped rendering the bit worthless. Look after bits by returning them to their original packaging after use or stand them in a piece of scrap wood that has had holes drilled or a moulded plastic tidy.

Even when a bit is well maintained, cheap bits don’t last as long as the more expensive ones because they usually aren’t as well made. Buy quality bits that won’t break, chip or dull prematurely. Solid carbide or carbide-tipped is a better choice than high-speed steel bits.

How to Use a Circular Saw - Useful Tips and Cuts

Cutting your wood to the length or shape you need is an important component of any woodworking project. A circular saw is a must-have for most woodworkers. It performs a range of cutting jobs that are time-consuming or near impossible with a hand saw. After finding a circular saw that is comfortable and easy to adjust, choose the blades to match the cuts you intend to make.

Circular Saw Blades

The right blade will ensure you get a neat and accurate cut. Blades with fewer teeth will cut faster but a blade with more teeth will give you a finer finish.

Rip-cut blades are used for cutting with the wood grain. They have an aggressive hook angle and flat tooth for a smooth finish and the longest life between sharpening.

Crosscut blades are used for cutting across the face of the board and have more teeth than rip-cut blades. Look for a blade that has a hardened steel plate body, laser cut and pre-tensioned for reduced vibration. An oversized carbide tip thickness can cut down vibration and extends the life of the blade.

Combination blades can do both rip cuts and crosscuts with groups of teeth which has one tooth for ripping and four teeth for crosscutting.

Plywood blades have many fine teeth for minimal splintering. Framing blades have fewer teeth than plywood blades, so they are faster and better suited to rough carpentry work.

For dados you want a blade that will make clean crosscuts and perfect flat bottoms. These blades are suitable for hardwood, softwood, laminates and veneer plywood.

Circular Saw Cuts

Choose the best circular saw blade for the job and the variety of cuts you can make with your circular saw is almost limitless.

Ripping

To cut, secure your wood on a platform of sawhorses, so it doesn’t sag, align the saw blade with your cutting line then cut slowly while guiding the saw with both hands. To keep the blade from binding, insert kerf splinters.

Crosscutting

To make a crosscut use four-by-two timber on the workshop floor to support the panel you are going to cut. Kneeling on one knee cut steadily while balancing and keep as much weight on the support wood rather than the panel.

Thick Wood

If the wood is thicker than the maximum blade depth, mark a cutting line on one face then use a tri square to repeat on the other three faces. Clamp the wood and then set the cutting depth at slightly more than half the thickness of the stock, make the cut then flip over the wood and re-clamp before cutting.

Angles

First clamp the wood to sawhorses then set a protractor or mitre guide to the angle you want to cut. Place the protractor on the wood and hold its guiding edge against the saw’s baseplate and the fence against the edge of the wood. Hold the saw firmly while cutting.

Bevel

Set the blade to the desired angle by loosening the bevel adjustment knob. Clamp the wood to sawhorses, align the blade with the cutting mark then butt an edge guide flush against the saw’s baseplate and clamp the guide to the board. Cut as you would a standard cross-cut.

Taper

Place your wood on a work surface so that it extends well over the edge. Make sure you can start your cut at the end of the wood then line up the blade with the cutting mark before clamping an edge guide on top of the wood. Make the cut the same as a standard rip cut. Hold the saw firmly particularly when the saw reaches the end of the cut.

Dadoes

Mark the width of the dado on the face of the stock then clamp to a work surface. Mark a depth line on the edge of the wood as a reference point and set the cutting depth of the blade to match. Align the blade with a width mark and clamp an edge guide in place. Repeat for the other side of the dado then grip the saw before riding the baseplate along one guide to cut an edge of the dado. Saw some kerfs between the two cuts before using a chisel to remove the waste.

Plunge Cut

Clamp the wood to sawhorses and align the blade with a cutting line. Clamp an edge guide to the wood against the baseplate of the saw. Set the guide longer than the cutting mark and high enough to guide the saw when tilted up. Retract the lower blade guard with one hand, grip the handle with the other hand then rest the baseplate on the wood and pivot the saw forward to raise the blade well clear of the wood. Turn on the saw and slowly lower the blade into the wood keeping the baseplate flush against the edge guide. At the end of the cutting line, turn off the saw, let the blade stop then pivot the tool forward to lift it out of the kerf. Square the corners with a hand saw.

This Youtube video shows you the basics of making a plunge cut:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rz0OgrP3Zk

Woodworking Clamps are Better than a Second Set of Hands

A wood workshop isn’t complete without a set of clamps. As a second set of hands, they come in very handy. You can use them to hold pieces of wood together while the glue is drying, keeping parts together so you can mark up and secure your project while you work on it. One set of clamps is never enough. You can choose the most versatile clamps but there will no doubt be times when you need a different set.

C-Clamp

C-clamps have been around for years and are often used for metalwork projects. They are ideal for holding pieces for glueing and securing your project or jigs to the bench or fence. Most C-clamps range from 3 inch to 10 inch so if your clamping job is bigger than a 10-inch reach, try using pipe or bar clamps.

Pipe Clamp

Pipe clamps are flexible in that you can decide how long you need them to be. The tailpiece slides and locks along the pipe to change the width while the headpiece has a screw that drives the clamping face. The pipe clamp is ideal for edge gluing pieces of wood together and other assembly jobs.

Bar Clamp

Similar to pipe clamps, the bar clamp has a built-in screw to apply pressure. The moving head adjusts capacity and the bar has a serrated edge into which the moveable head locks when pressure is applied. The head is square to the bar so your project should come out right after gluing. The bar clamp can also be used for holding the project on the bench or a jig and holding parts together while making layout lines and for assembly. A good quality bar clamp has a heavy, rigid bar with a hefty clamping head that fit squarely and holds tight.

Parallel Clamp

If you have a project that needs to be pulled in square without the need to check then the parallel clamp may be the one. The jaws stay parallel and at 90 degrees so they are easy to handle. A parallel clamp can deliver a huge clamping force and are ideal for large projects.

Face Frame Clamp

A face frame clamp distributes the clamping force evenly, so there is no marring of the wood. It is a versatile clamp that can be used for pocket hole joinery, project construction and general clamping. Right angle face frame clamps are used for projects with a 90-degree joint while micro face frame clamps are used for projects that require flush Kreg joints.

Corner Clamp

If you need a square corner from gluing two pieces of wood together, then a corner or spring mitre clamp is your answer. Choose the appropriate size spring clamp then use the spreader to open and position the clamp. While not as versatile as some of the other clamps, these clamps ensure you achieve an accurate result for a job that could be quite tricky without them.

One Hand Clamp

The one hand or speed clamp is easy to use because it can be operated with just one hand. Simply squeeze the handle to close the jaws a little more. Good clamping pressure is achieved and with a protective pad, the clamp won’t mar your wood. The speed clamp may be used to keep a project in place while you attach a heavier clamp such as a pipe or bar clamp.

Maintenance of your Woodworking Tools

Woodworking tools are designed to last many years as long as you look after them. With some regular maintenance, you can extend the life of your tools and keep you safe. Learn a few tips for maintaining your tools.

What to Include on Your Regular Maintenance Checklist

Depending on the type of tools you own and how often you use them will dictate your maintenance schedule. The following is a list of jobs that should be completed on a regular basis to keep your tools in good working order.

Check Tool Alignment is Accurate

A machine that is out of alignment needs to work harder and doesn’t produce ideal results. Invest in some good quality tools to check and realign your tools so that you aren’t at risk of kickbacks. An incra square and multi-gauge will cover most of your aligning tasks. Keep your alignment equipment out of your toolbox jumble to ensure they stay in a good, accurate condition.

Remove Sawdust from Machines

The longer sawdust is left sitting on machines, the greater the chance it will find its way inside motors and switches. Use a brush or vacuum to remove the sawdust rather than an air compressor which can drive sawdust deeper into machines.

Lubricating Parts on Working Machines

Due to the dusty environment, woodworking tools and machines need cleaning and lubricating. But using the wrong lubricant can be even more damaging than not using one at all. White grease can attract and hold dust while lubricants that contain silicone can move from surface to surface and eventually end up on your project making it difficult for the finish to adhere to the wood. Look for a dry lubricant with no silicone such as Camellia Oil and apply after thoroughly cleaning the surface.

Removing Rust Spots

Cast iron is used on saw tables and parts of woodworking machines because of its durable, heavy properties but it is prone to rust. Use WD-40 or a non-silicone lubricant and some steel wool to rub away the rust spot. Clean the surface thoroughly after the rust has been removed. You may be left with a mark where the rust was because part of the metal has been lost. SilverGlide Rust Inhibitor can be used to protect your cast iron tops.

Clean Blades and Cutters

If you skimp on cleaning your blades or cutters, they can become contaminated with resins and wood components. A dull, dirty blade or cutter doesn’t cut as efficiently or neatly and increases the chance of injuring the operator. By removing contaminants you won’t need to sharpen or replace your blade as often. Use a cleaning agent that won’t scratch or dull the surface then use a soft brush or rag to remove the contaminants before rinsing and drying thoroughly.

Sharpen the Edge of Tools

You can save yourself some frustration and valuable work time by sharpening your edge tools all at once. There is nothing more annoying than picking up a tool in the middle of your project to find you need to stop and sharpen it. Some of the tools that need sharpening include your chisels, planes, knives, carving tools, turning tools and scissors. Choose whether you prefer to use a flat stone or a powered sharpening system to keep your tools razor sharp and ready to use. Remember to match the existing angle of the bevel before refining and honing the edge.

Clean the Router’s Collet Parts

Collets can hold a build-up of contaminants which can harden to a shiny residue. The collet can then struggle to hold the bit properly. Use WD-40 and a brush to clean the collet and the receptacle machined into the spindle on a regular basis.



Once you have completed your maintenance schedule a few times, your tools won’t need as much attention, and you won’t need to spend as much time.

Setting up your Woodworking Router

Buying yourself a new woodworking router is pretty exciting. A router opens up the possibility of completing a raft of new projects. You will want to get in there straight away and start making some grooves but it’s important you get to know your new tool before you unleash it on your project. It can take time to learn how to do the set-up correctly particularly if you haven’t used a router much before.

Types of Routers

There are two main kinds of routers – handheld where you take your router to your project and a table-mounted router where you take your project to the tool. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. For many woodworkers just starting out, they choose the hand held option and may move to a mounted option later.

Set-up of your Router

To get started, you will need to insert the bit. Rather than dropping the bit into the collet and tightening, find the bottom of the recess and then move it a centimetre or two from the bottom before tightening. If the bit is touching the bottom you may jam the shank against the end of the recess. You shouldn’t need too much pressure to tighten the collet. If you use two wrenches for the job squeeze together with one hand. To loosen reverse the wrench action.

Securing your Project

Now that the bit is secure, you want to make sure your project isn’t going to move around on your bench. If not secured properly you risk injuring yourself and damaging your work. Depending on your piece, use a vice, bench dogs, I beam risers and clamps to safely attach it to the bench. Risers make it easier on your back and the bit is unobstructed by the bench.

Guiding the Router

A router is usually guided by a bit’s pilot bearing, a fence, a template-guided bushing or edge guide. Which guide you use will depend on whether you are using a template and the location of the cut.

A pilot’s bearing is a shielded ball bearing that sits under or over the cutter, suitable for straight or curved work surfaces. The project can ride against the bearing or a template that is attached to the project. When using a bearing guided bit, be careful to not let the router tip by using firm downward pressure and keeping one handle over your work.

A fence can be offset blocks or a self-clamping straight edge which the base of the router can run along. Move the router left to right when facing the bearing edge of the fence.

Template guides or guide bushings are collars attached to the sub-base of a router. The bit is longer than the bushing and rides along the edge of a template. The size of the bushing will depend on the diameter of the bit.

An edge guide attaches to the bottom of the router through one or two extension rods. A fence attaches to the edge guide and can be adjusted to any location on the rods. The fence then rides along the edge of the project to cut dadoes, grooves and mortises.

Remember to always use sharp, good quality bits in your router. Most routers use interchangeable collets so you can use either ¼ or ½ inch diameter bits in your router. When you have a choice of bit sizes, use the larger one so the collet has more to grip and chatter is minimised.

Practice Makes Perfect

As eager as you may be to get started on your project, it’s a good idea to practice with your router first. Try using as many different guides and bits as you own on different scrap materials to see how the router behaves. Draw lines on your material to ensure the accuracy of your cuts is spot on and before long you will be ready to get started on your projects.