The Different Types of Hand Clamps

There are so many clamps available on the market; it’s hard to know if you should buy one or two in every style or a fairly universal one that will cover most of your clamping requirements. But your workshop probably has limited space so buying one of everything is probably not going to work. Look at the types of projects you most commonly do and find a few clamps that will cover most of the projects you do.

Spring Clamp

Also known as pinch clamps, the spring clamp is small in size but big on power. Spring clamps are good for small repairs and as a third hand for holding items you need to glue or paint. The spring clamp offers easy release and even clamping pressure.

3-Way Edge Clamps

The 3-Way clamp is the traditional spring clamp with an additional spring that applies a third direction of pressure. The clamp can give you more than 10 kg of clamping pressure, providing a far better bond than tape alone.

Band Clamp

If you need to clamp curves, closed contours and other tricky clamping jobs, then a band clamp may be your friend. A canvas band clamp can provide even pressure on mitre joints and can have adjusted angles from 60 to 180 degrees. Pressure is applied by placing the band around the workpiece and pulling tight to lock in place.

Face 90 Degree Corner Clamp

This clamp allows you to align joints to a 90-degree angle when compressed. A swivel head allows you to adjust for material thickness.

Face Frame Clamp

If you are doing any pocket hole joinery, project construction or general clamping, a face frame clamp may be what you need. Swivel pads ensure there is no marring of your work piece and even force clamping.

One Hand Clamp

When you don’t have enough hands to hold the project and fit the clamp, invest in a one hand clamp. A lightweight clamp allows you to exert plenty of clamping pressure while only using a couple of fingers to complete the job. A good one hand clamp will allow you to swap between flat or angled grip pads within seconds.

Parallel Clamp

As the name suggests, this clamp allows the jaws to remain parallel to each other and stay at 90 degrees keeping your work piece square. A Parallel-K clamp can be used on right angles, round and pointed work pieces.

Pipe Clamp

Often lighter and cheaper than the traditional T-bar sash clamp, choose a pipe clamp with taller feet and a cast crank handle for tensioning the work piece.

Toggle Clamp

If you have a lot of repetitive clamping to do, the toggle clamp can save you time on your wood or metalwork projects. The clamping thickness can be increased by mounting a spacer under the clamp base.

Throat Clamp

Also known as F-clamps, look for a throat clamp that has a soft grip handle and flexible cast-iron heads that won’t crack under pressure.

Miter Clamp

Used for gripping two mitred edge pieces together at right angles. There are internal (upper) and external (lower) types available.

Hand clamps for woodwork projects

Choosing the right hand clamps is crucial and you can't afford to go wrong. We highly recommend that you speak to an expert at Timbecon who can provide more information on the different types of hand clamps to make working on your woodwork projects easier.  

How to Choose the Right Vice

The design of the bench vice hasn’t changed much in years. It's still a very handy tool to have, but with so many on the market, it's hard to choose the right one. Make the wrong choice however and you will have years of frustration trying to use a vice that doesn’t hold parts firm or isn’t big enough to accommodate your workpiece. But how can you tell which is the right bench vice for your workshop and what should you consider when making a purchase?

What you Will Use the Vice For

Different types of vices will suit different jobs. A woodworker will want a different vice to a machinist, model maker or homeowner.

What to Check when Buying

Size matters when you are purchasing a vice. You want one that is big enough to handle the projects but not too big that your budget or workbench suffers.

Length of Jaws - a 4 to 5-inch length of the jaws from end to end will be able to handle a household DIY job but may not be sufficient for a woodworker.

Throat Depth - the throat depth is measured from the top of the jaws to the top of the slide below. The longer the throat, the larger the pieces it can hold.

Weight – if you are going to be whacking the vice with an anvil, you will want a vice that can take the punishment. However, don’t always go for the heaviest vice you can find if your workbench isn’t a solid construction.

Rotation – consider if you want your vice to be able to swivel 360 or 180 degrees once mounted on the bench.

Mounting – if you want to move your vice off your bench or move it around regularly then you will want one that can be easily removed. Look at the way it's mounted to the bench – bolts, suction cap or clamp – and find the one that will suit you best.

8 Steps for Organising your Workspace

Whether you are just starting out in a new workshop or you are organising an existing workshop, follow these steps for a clean, organised workspace. You will be able to find things quicker and get the job done with less frustration. If you do the job properly you will be thanking yourself for years to come.

Step 1 Clean Out

Pull everything out. It’s a big job but if you want to give your workshop a thorough revamp, you need to start with a clean slate. Sort through all of your gear and decide what you are going to keep, donate and throw out. Only keep what you think you will use so you can maximise the space available. Order a skip bin if you have a lot of junk to get rid of so you aren’t storing anything while you wait for your wheelie bin to be emptied.

Step 2 Spruce Up

If the walls and ceiling are metal, wash them down. If you have plaster walls and ceiling, fill any cracks and holes and give it a fresh coat of paint. Either use a roller if it’s a small area or for a quicker job on larger workshops, use an air powered sprayer.

Step 3 Flooring

If your floors are rough and a trip hazard, think about replacing them now. Remember you may not do another big clean out of your workshop for ten years (or ever) so think about your much older self. You don’t want to stop using your workshop when you are in your 70’s or 80’s because it is too hazardous. If your flooring is in good condition, look at getting a rubber mat or old carpet if you need some cushioning for long days in the workshop.

Step 4 Lighting

Decide if you have adequate lighting in the workshop. If not organise for an electrician to install a new light fitting otherwise replace the globe in your current fitting to see if that makes a difference. For safety and ease of working particularly when it’s fine close-up work, you need good lighting in your work area. Use task lighting if natural and overhead lights aren’t adequate.

Step 5 Workbench

Have a look at your workbench and decide if you need to modify your existing one by changing the height or adding a shelf underneath for storage. If you are buying a new workbench, look at the type of projects you will be working on and find one that best matches the tools you will be using most.

Non slip mats are available to keep your project in place while you are working on it.

Step 6 Storage

To maximise your available space and to make it easy to find things when you need them, sort out your storage. Decide what you need easy, regular access to and what you don’t so those items can go at the back or up high.

Get your stock up off the floor with a woodrack storage system. Store tools neatly under the bench or on the wall so they aren’t damaged and can be found easily.

Step 7 Safety First

If you are storing chemicals in your workshop, make sure they are kept away from any heat sources. If you don’t already have one or it’s out of date, buy a new fire extinguisher to keep in case of an emergency.

Step 8 Keep it Clean

After all your hard work getting your workshop to where it is, you want to be able to keep it clean easily. If you are working with wood, chances are your workshop is regularly filled with dust and shavings. If you have had enough of the dust and you want to work in a healthier environment, invest in a dust extractor or air filter.

Choosing your Router Bits

A workshop wall can be covered with one hundred router bits with different profiles, shank sizes and tip types. To the untrained eye one router bit can look the same as the bit next to it. So how do you determine which router bit you need for your job?

Half Inch V Quarter Inch

The ¼ and ½ inch size you see on router bits refers to the shank size which is the cylinder that fits into the router collet. The ½ inch shank has four times the mass of ¼ inch shanks and provides greater stability when in use. The extra mass reduces vibrations and offers a solid cut. However, when you need to route a very thin profile, the ¼ inch is far more practical.

Profiles

There are 10 basic profiles that can be used singularly or in combination to achieve most basic and complex routing projects.

Beading Bit - provides a rounded shape to the edge of the stock with a square shoulder on the top and bottom edges of the roundover.

Chamfer Bit - a 45-degree angled cut on the square edge of a piece of stock.

Cove Bit - applies a concave, rounded profile on the stock.

Dado Straight Cutting Bit - a variety of straight cutting bits can be used to cut a square in the middle of a stock.

Dovetail Bit - this profile has a flat bottom with angled sides which are wider at the base.

Rabbet Bit - a right angle cut, like a dado on the edge of a piece of stock.

Round Nose Bit - similar to the cove bit, except the cut is made in the middle of a piece of stock.

Roundover Bit - creates a rounded profile on the square edge of a piece of stock.

V-Groove Bit - as the name suggests a V shape cut in the centre of the stock.

Ogee Bit - a compound S shaped profile.

Speed of your Router

Some router motors allow you to choose the speed to match the type of wood you are routing. A bit that is running too high an RPM can burn the wood while if it spins too slow it can leave a ragged rough cut. Remember, the general rule is the larger the bit, the slower the router speed.

Timbecon stock some of the highest quality router bit and accessories available.

Mouter Plunge Router Bits - If you have a recess that needs routing out then this is the ideal profile. Designed for maximum stock removal and chip injection, they can clear out any material. If you have multiple hinges to do, pair the bit with a bearing guide for perfect repetition. These bits are available in several different shank sizes and cutting diametres.

CMT Router Bits - CMT Orange Tools are one of the preferred brands. Timbecon carries an extensive range of different router bits designed for different jobs. From Chamfer router bits to cabinet making and small arch door and box joint sets.

Torquata Router Bits - Quality made bits available in the shapes and sizes you need to get the job done. Made especially for Timbecon, Torquata even has Australia’s first triple-bladed bit for heavy duty applications. Torquata is available in jointing bits, mould and trim bits and router bit sets.

Milescraft - If it’s signmaking router bits you’re looking for, the Signpro can make professional horizontal and vertical signs.

Accessories

Router Bit Tidies - keep all of your bits in the one place and not get damaged with a tidy. Available for ½ inch and ¼ inch bits.

Bit Sharpener - a double-sided stainless steel sharpener with coarse 300 grit diamond grade for the edge and fine coarse 600 grit diamond grade for honing the primary edge.

Router Bit Lock Rings, Screws and Washers - high quality long life hardware that can be used on Torquata, CMT, Carbitool and other brands of router bits.

Planning your Woodworking Project

To achieve the best outcome from every woodworking project, you need to spend some time on planning and preparation. We all want to go out and choose our perfect piece of wood and get cutting but a little effort in the early stages can pay off in the long run.

Planning

Start by asking yourself what you want to achieve from your project and the function of the piece? Knowing what the end product needs to do, allows you to move forward and start sketching it out. If you are looking for some ideas or inspiration, check out these sites.

Instructables Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Popular Woodworking Magazine

Minwax

Popular Mechanics

The Family Handyman

Before you finalise your design or sketches, check if your design can’t be improved with an addition here or a modification there. Again you can turn to the internet for advice and pictures to make sure you are completely happy with your piece long term. Once your design is finalised, you will be able to confirm the materials you will be using. You will need to know if you will be making a solid wood project or a veneer project. Price the materials you need to ensure they are within budget.

The Right Tools and Materials

There is nothing worse than getting into your project and being forced to stop because you don’t have the right tools on hand. Different tools, cutters and methods are needed depending on your materials. Decide early on what router bits, saw blades or cutters you will need to complete the project and order them now. If you don’t want to buy any new tools, then you have the option of changing your design now before you buy any materials.

Similarly to your tools, you will want to check if you need to buy more glue, fillers, sealers and finishes. There is nothing more frustrating than getting everything ready to glue only to find it has gone hard. Having everything on hand means you aren’t wasting time on multiple orders or trips to the hardware store.

Your Project

Once you have all the wood, tools and other materials on hand, you can get started. As part of your planning and information for next time, keep notes on any difficulties or tricks you come across, so you know for similar projects you undertake in the future. Every piece of information can help. It’s hard to remember the time-saving tricks you discover so write it down in a notebook or on your computer for easy reference.

Remember to take a photo of your finished piece and share it with the online woodworking community on your favourite forum or blog. Fellow woodworkers may be looking for the inspiration your piece provides.

All that is left to do is enjoy your piece and start planning your next project.

The Best in Table Top Routers

If you are someone who uses a router regularly, it’s wise to invest in a table top. A table makes the job easier, safer and more accurate. With a router table, it won’t take you long to master working with long, narrow or small stock, edge trimming, grooves, dadoes, slots, dovetail and box joinery. The projects are endless .

Choosing your Table Top Router

A table top router should last many years, so it’s important you choose a good quality table offering accuracy and stability. Timbecon did plenty of research before deciding which brands to stock. We looked at each model and checked to see if the tables were:

Good design - the table needs to be able to handle large workpieces and be comfortable for the average person to use.

Sturdy - the table needs to be strong and able to withstand years of use before showing signs of wear and tear.

Precision - if the table doesn’t offer perfect accuracy every time it didn’t make the cut.

In the end, we decided to stock the Baladonia and Kreg brands because they met our requirements and offer customers good value for money. Below we’ve listed a few of the table top routers and accessories we stock.

24x16in MDF/Phenolic Router Table Kit

Not everyone is looking for a heavy cast-iron table top router. Made from 32mm-thick HMR (High Moisture Resistant) and 2mm black PVC edge banding, you can expect a long life from your table if it is kept in a workshop, not exposed to humidity long-term. The stand is a heavy-duty L-angle steel powder-coated in burnt ochre with plenty of bracing.

This table top is also available in a huge 32x24in size with the posts made from heavy tubular steel with thick steel braces.

27x16in Cast-Iron Table Kit

If it’s cast-iron you want, then you will find plenty in this Baladonia benchtop router table. The table is cast then precision CNC-machined multiple times, so it’s dead flat and also has stress-relieving and strengthening ribs on the underside of the table for maximum strength.

27x16in Deluxe Cast Iron Router Table Kit

If you are looking for the Rolls Royce in router tables, look no further. This Baladonia kit has had every component and accessory bolted on including a lift, dust collection box, Super Flat Fence, two horizontal and two vertical featherboards and a fence flip stop.

Kreg Benchtop Router Table

If you need an industrial grade table top with full-size capabilities plus portability, you can’t go past this table. Made from an edge-banded, vibration and noise resistant MDF it features an Easy-Slide™ Micro-Dot skin. The high-pressure laminate allows your work pieces to slide across the surface easily.

Accessories

There are a few accessories to consider when you are buying a table top router.

Router Table Dust Collection Box

Keep your workshop clean and healthy with a dust collection box that picks up around 98% of all dust because the collection point is right next to the bit and underneath the table. This dust collection box has been designed to mount to the underside of the Baladonia MDF table or the bottom of your home-made table top.

Right Angle Fixture

If you are using a Baladonia Router Table Fence and you do a lot of fine vertical routing then it makes sense to invest in a right angle fixer, to make life easier. Produced from heavy-duty extruded aluminium, the right-angle fixture runs in the t-slot on the top of the fence via a matching precision-milled UHMW t-profile.

Table Switch

If you are building a table rather than buying one then a remote switch is a must. This one can be mounted on an MDF Top Router Table. Rated up to 10 amps.

Extension Support Frame

If you have a Baladonia 32x24in table top then an extension is a great accessory to have if you work with end-grain or panel product like MDF or chipboard. The extender gives you an extra 500mm of support.

Mitre Guide

The solid mitre guide that comes with all Baladonia deluxe router table stands is now available to buy separately. The mitre bar is the standard-size 3/4 x 3/8in (19 x 9.5mm) and has a good quality protractor.

Standard Fence

This Kreg fence is made of anodized aluminum and features a table saw-style T-square adjustment system. The fence can be easily adjusted with one hand and locks firmly in place with dual locks.

What to Look for in a Table Saw

Buying a table saw can be a big decision. Firstly, a table is a sizeable investment compared to most of your other tools in the workshop. Table saws have a long life, so you will want to happy with your choice because there is a good chance you will have it for the rest of your life. They also take up a fair amount of space in your workshop, so you want your table to be a hard-working unit that you enjoy using.

There are many brands on the market, but Timbecon chooses to stock Sherwood table saws. The UK-based company is well-known for its high quality cutting tools and machines. They invest heavily in R&D and provide tools for drilling, milling, sawing, threading, countersinking and reaming.

1. Power

Before you make your purchase, think about your requirements for power. A hobbyist with small project pieces won’t need the same level of power that a commercial workshop will need. For example, a 2-inch thick piece of hardwood should be fine on a 1.5 to 2 horsepower table saw but if the hardwood is any thicker, then a 3.5 to 5 horsepower motor is required.

2. Safety Features

Look at the safety features available on the table saw before you purchase. Being able to operate the on/off switch with your knee, hip or foot allows you to keep both hands on your piece which may save a finger but also save your work from unfortunate slips.

Being able to adjust the height of your table saw is not just important for short or tall people. An easily adjustable table allows you to change the height with every project. Working at the ideal height means you are less at risk of back, neck and repetitive strain injuries.

If you haven’t used a table saw regularly, then the safest option is to go with one that has a left blade tilt rather than right. Bevel and angle cuts require the saw to be angled from its usual 90-degree position.

A No-Volt Release (NVR) switch makes sure your table saw doesn’t automatically startup when the power is restored following an outage. A serious injury could occur if you were working or leaning against your table saw and it started without warning.

Kickback can cause injuries but you can minimise these with a table saw that uses a riving knife instead of a splitter as the splitter can be removed from the machine. The 10in Standard Cabinet Saw boasts a quick release riving knife system.

3. Dust Collection

Having a table saw that collects the dust isn’t just a nice feature for keeping the workshop clean. Dust extractors reduce the quantity of sawdust in the air which helps with air quality. The less wood dust in the air, the less you are breathing in. The Sherwood models have different dust extractors depending on the type of saw.

The Sherwood 10in Contractor Saw has a dust port built into the top part of the base to ensure maximum dust extraction.

The Sherwood 10in Hybrid Saw provides a 4in dust outlet at the rear of the cabinet base.

The Sherwood 10in Standard Cabinet Saw has a 4in dust outlet built into the rear of the cabinet base.

4. Portability

If you need to move your table saw from job to job, you may need one that can be easily transported in the back of a ute or trailer. The 10in Worksite Saw makes it easy to move your saw table around or when it’s not in use, fold up the stand and store out of the way so you have more room in a tight workshop.

5. Easy to Use

If you are a hobbyist who is only going to use your table saw on the odd occasion, you are at risk of not becoming familiar with it, simply because you don’t use it enough. Even if you do use it regularly then stop, it's easy to forget how to use it between projects. Before you purchase your table saw, check that you are going to be able to change the blades easy enough, calibrate your machine and use it to complete your projects.